Segovia, Castile & Leon, Spain

The stunning Alcazar of Segovia

This week was a stressful and challenging week as John completed his first term examinations. So when Saturday rolled around we escaped North together to clear our heads and shake off the week. After weeks of anticipating a visit, we were finally able to take the opportunity to visit the small old town of Segovia in the Castille & Leon Province. Excited to visit Segovia, home to several of Spain's largest ancient treasures: the roman aqueduct and also the stunning Alcazar Castle, we left mid morning on Spain's efficient AVE line (the speed train). This meant that we were quickly over Madrid's stunning snow covered Guadalajara mountain range and into the beautiful township of Segovia in a record 30minutes. 

Snowy mountains against the plains of Castile

Located on the high flat plains of Castile, Segovia, translated in ancient Celtiberian as 'city of victory' or ' victorious city' has been named a special UNESCO heritage site. Although records are hazy as to the city's true origins, it is believed that Celtic people called the Vaccaei first inhabited the area around 75BC. Later control was passed to the Romans and Latin courts. Established formally around 50AD as a Roman colony, it's not one of the oldest settlements in Spain but by far one of the most beautiful we have visited yet. Surrounded by snow-peaked mountains and green fields bursting with brown coloured olive groves and wandering livestock the city is nestled quietly between the Esesma and Clamores rivers. 

Exploring the old city

Roman Aquaduct

Having once been an ancient Roman trading centre, the city was deserted and abandoned after the Moor invasion. However it was resettled with Christians after the Spanish reconquista becoming a splendour of the Middle Ages. As an important centre for wool and textiles the little town grew into a royal enclave and was home to many of Spain's royals. By 1594 the population rose to 27,000 citizens, including a large Jewish population.

As our train quickly arrived we raced out to find ourselves out in the surrounding countryside. We had to wait and catch a bus into the city! We ended up getting off too early and following green signs towards the old centre, which were really for cars, not people. A small snack at our favourite '100 Montaditos' and a chat to the friendly staff at the local information office, who explained where we went wrong, we began exploring.

Plaza Mayor and Segovia Cathedral 

The first thing you can't help but notice is the huge stone Roman aqueduct that traverses high across Plaza del Azoguejo. An important architectural monument in Segovia and throughout Spain, it's considered the best preserved piece of Roman history in the country. Built around the late first or early second century AD, it stands almost 30meters high with a total length of approx 32 kilometres. Stretching from the Fuente Fria river high in the mountains it runs across the plains traveling at a one percent decline before arriving in the city and finishing at the base of the Alcazar Castle. Once you stand under the large granite arches it gives you a real appreciation for the masonry, each stone just balancing on the other. From the plaza we walked left, up the stairs for a topside view.

Ancient cobbled alleys

Exploring Segovia

Jump over to the neighbours

Small local bars

What we loved about Segovia is that the small city feels like you are almost stepping back into medieval times with its small preserved cobbled streets and wooden archways. The roads are narrow and dark opening up into large open plazas. As we reached the grand Plaza Mayor, shaded from the winter sun and surrounded by cafes and shops we admired the imposing Segovia cathedral across the square. 

Noted as a powerful expression of gothic architecture the cathedral was built as a dedication to the Virgin Mary in the mid sixteenth century. 

View from Juan tower, Alcazar

We didn't stop long though and continued walking to get to the handsome Alcazar of Segovia. This magnificent stone fortress was believed to have been built on the foundations of an old Roman fort. First references to the castle date back to 1120, during the time when King Alfonso VI reconquered the lands. It was his grandson King Alfonso VIII and wife, Eleanor of England, who made the Alcazar into a royal threshold. 

Alcazar gardens

Close up, East-side

Exploring the armoury 

Inside the Alcazar Palace

Stain glass in the Alcazar

Royal throne room

Throughout the middle ages the amazing castle was home to kings and queens of the Castile kingdom. Exploring the castle was our highlight of Segovia! Settled right on the top of a small hill and towards the edge of the historical city limit, its view reigns over the countryside and out over the city.

Inner court yard

Late breakfast, tapa and beer

The castle watches down on the old city walls and outwards towards many of the city's monasteries. Approaching it, through the carefully crafted gardens, it is easy to imagine young fair and golden haired princesses sitting, basking in the glorious sunlight at the bay windows with their ladies in waiting. There once would have been strong armour clad knights standing guard over the moat and horses restlessly waiting by old stables. After getting tickets, we toured the restored rooms and castle armoury and found, with all the stone, it was quite chilly inside! The best part of the tour was climbing the 150 narrow, windy stairs to the top of the Juan tower in the middle of the castle. The views were outstanding across the Castile plains! 

Castile Plains, South View from Juan Tower

Although our trip was threatened with the prospect of a rain shower and with it still technically being winter (yip- we were wearing gloves!) it didn't stop many of the restaurants setting up their outdoor dining and the city was very lively with people, so we went off hunting for lunch. 

After our late lunch and a wander down the aqueduct we headed back home. What a fantastic trip.

Tot siens, 

John and Kara 

And finally waiting for the train home

London, United Kingdom

Iconic London Phone Box

Early on a cold February morning, and we mean so cold that little soft frozen flurries of snow were making there way down from the heavens and melting on our jackets, we walked silently in the darkness towards the Madrid airport express bus. 

Now this is where Kara's 'big London adventure' began, leaving John in Madrid for a long weekend of study. After arriving at the airport (sleeping the entire way) and then into Stanford London airport (after sleeping the entire flight) there was a major delay at immigration, grumble grumble and a missed transfer, grumble grumble. Able to catch the next transfer, I arrived in the heart of central London city, bright eyed and rearing to go. Upon meeting bestie Alix at Trafalgar Square, we traversed back to her house where I had a shower and then the hardcore exploration began!

Bangers and Mash

Gosh, where to start? After not visiting an English speaking country for well over a year, London was a bit of a culture shock. I was dumbfounded when somebody at the airport terminal turned around and genuinely said 'can I help you'?, with a blank look on my face I think I mumbled, excuse me, are you talking to me? They were! 

Suddenly I could see people were not so subtly listening in on my conversations even so much as to remark in spontaneously. Children would run past speaking in English, which was the oddest thing and I often caught myself just staring and looking around as too see who they were with. Culture shock it seems is not only the process of emerging yourself in a foreign country but also the re-immersion back into your own culture.

Big Ben bell tower- So Magnificent 

Westminister Abby

Off for drinks 

Stain glass windows of Westminister

Walking down the Thames, Fulham Park

St James Park sunset

My weekend in London was better than what I expected. The weather was beautiful, ain't it? And the city so rich in culture. As the world's largest city between 1831-1925 there was so much for us to see. Just reading up on England was surprising, there is evidence of early settlements first dating back to the Bronze Age. However it was the Romans that set up major camp after invading in 43AD and the city grew to become the capital of Britannia. After the Roman collapse the city came under the rule of the Ango-Saxons but was often invaded by Vikings! I never knew London was so well established, but in all honesty I didn't take history class at high school and my learning about London was limited to reruns of Mary Poppins and a global explorer english class I taught to Chinese primary-school students.

So on Friday after a cup of tea we left Alix's house in Pudley, walked down by the Thames river and watched the rowers racing down the murky water. Catching the green underground line, we ventured into the city and got off at Westminster. 

Estate outside Fulham Palace

The first thing you see is the grand Big Ben, Westminster and just opposite, Queen Mary's Cathedral. We crossed over the road and gawked at the massive Palace of Westminster and on its far left the Big Ben bell tower, renamed in 2012 to the Elizabeth tower. Built in 1858 the tower is one of the most famous English landmarks. The Palace, which received its name from the neighbouring Westminister Abby is also referred to as the House of Commons or the Houses of Parliament. Both buildings are magnificent and although we could only peer in through the cold iron gates we were impressed with their grandness!

Supreme Court of the United Kingdom

We took a free tour of the Supreme Court of the United Kingdom, which is the Supreme Court over all matters under English, Welsh, Northern Ireland and Scottish civil law. It was something a little off the beaten track and quite interesting! The security were very friendly and they took lots of photos of us playing around in the chambers. Next for lunch we went to an old English pub for some bangers and mash and of course cold Bulmers apple cider. 

About here I should mention, compared with Madrid, London was hideously and outrageously expensive. A week's worth of groceries in Spain is one meal out in London. By then the winter sunset was already progressing and we wandered through St James park as the last rays of orange light shone over the city watching the overly friendly and scary looking squirrels racing across the grass. 

After a slow start, Saturday turned out to be the New Zealand Waitangi Day, the infamous London pub crawl was under way and I wasn't sure whether to sing along with the red and yellow bumble bees as they destroyed the national anthem on the already overpacked metro or stare horrified at the ridiculous stupor of the young people.

Greenwich Town Pub

London Tower Bridge from the Thames River

However we left them to do their own thing and were on a mission to visit Greenwich (pronounced gren-itch) side skirting the shenanigans to enjoy a late lunch overlooking the Thames. Greenwich is a small district town located along the Thames once used as Royal hunting grounds. Today its 200 acre park is bordered by the small Victorian town, home to several Royal museums and market which dates back to the 14th century. 

Greenwich pub

Official Greenwich time

After a stroll through the Royal Navel museum we effortlessly scaled Maize Hill, London's highest hill to visit the famous prime meridian line by the Royal Greenwich Observatory. The Observatory has long been used as a basis for measurement and now across the world GMT, Greenwich median time is widely used. Further pub visits followed before we boarded an easy cruise along the Thames to South Bank (further pub visits).

Medieval Fulham Palace

Sunday began with a stroll around the local Pudley market and a hearty English Breakfast at the medieval Fulham Palace (est 704), once home to the Bishop of London and used as a country home from the 11th century. After breakfast we wandered through the extensive botanical gardens. Next off a day of royalty, as we started at Buckingham Palace hoping to see the change of guards. We unfortunately missed them and actually had trouble seeing the guards as they're now located behind the main fence and were warmly dressed in their grey winter uniforms. 

Buckingham palace is the official Queen's residence and a large English flag flying at full mast symbolises that she was in residence!

Outside Buckingham Palace

Buckingham Palace gates

Little goblins watching the lock

Alix cycling in Hyde Park

Cycling, Hyde Park

Wellington Arch War memorial

From there we hired local bicycles and cycled our way through the ginormous 350acres of Hyde Park to Kensington Palace, set within the Kensington gardens. Created for Royal hunting exhibitions by Henry VIII in 1536 Hyde park remained an enclosed deer park until 1637 when it was opened to the public. Across the south boundary of the park is neighbouring Kensington Palace. 

The royal residence has been continually occupied since the 17th century and is where current Prince William and his wife the Duchess Kate live. We spent over two and a half hours exploring the Palace and State rooms which has a public museum of sorts. 

The museum is split into different quarters like the Queen's State Apartments or alternatively the King's State apartments with their grand high-top roofs. On display are many different royal artefacts and the frescos were just beautiful!

Kensington Palace Interior

Royal Memorial, Hyde Park

Memorial for Q. Vic Royal Consort

View from Kensington Palace

Hyde Park, dusk

Inside the Queen's quarters, Kensington Palace

Interior room, Kensington Palace

Traditional English fare

Ladies who fine dine!

After a bite to eat we explored the enormous gardens, several of the monuments and unusual sculptures in Hyde park further before our appointment at the Hilton for High Tea where we dined like fine ladies on raspberry jam scones, mini sandwiches, cakes and drunk soothing tea.

What a weekend! It was an amazing city to visit and I hope to be back again soon. A big thank you to Alix, her sister and friends for helping to make the weekend special!

Tot siens,

Kara 

Royal Guardsmen in the Winter unifrom