Rabat, Morocco

Gardens of Kasbah, Rabat

The plane soared high over Madrid's dry cloudy landscape, only two days ago we had returned from Portugal and now we were back in the skies again!

Like the last stragglers in a flock of migrating birds we flew South to the warmer sunnier shores of Northern Africa. 





As we all glared out of the one small airplane window it was evident that there was a stark contrast in architecture and living standard from where we had come. We landed on the wide fertile plains that have been drawing settlers since the 8th century BC. 

The small capital city of Rabat in Morocco was pleasantly warm, not too hot. With blue sky overhead we walked through the small airport, changed some money and jumped onto the airport bus.

Ave. Mohammed V, Rabat Medina

The bus weaved through the traffic effortlessly, everything seemed to flow smoothly through a constant unharmonious melody of background honking. The apartments we passed were painted white and contrasted against the dusty brown road. Their windows covered with wrought rusty iron and Arabic signage. We veered alongside paddocks of crops and square sand coloured towers of ancient Islamic origin that rose high over the landscape. Arriving at the main train station, a grand white building, we realised our map wasn't as readable as we anticipated and Stu's phone had an interesting French translation of the street names. Blindly we went right, left and right again, holding the different maps at odd angles. There might have been some panic. Eventually we located the hotel and raced into the bathroom!! 

We didn't stay inside for long as hunger drove us back onto the warm streets and in search of food we walked into the old Medina. Passing through the walled Islamic grand arches we could smell strong fragrances of fresh coriander, whiffs of battered fish cooking in hot oil, the almondy aroma of crumbly coconut cookies lined up in stainless steel shelves, popular with families of sweet seeking wasps. The dark cloth-covered alleyways were filled with stalls selling an array of fruits and vegetables, sacks of seeds, rice and lentils and also fresh meats. Many so fresh they were still clucking and running around. From inside rolled up garages, where washing hung from the second story windows, were shops which sold eggs, olives, barrel of spices, clothing, copper bowls and clay pots. The ground was littered with rubbish and a fishy breeze sprung forth when passing the smaller side alleys mixing with the surrounding smells of hot nuts and defecation. 

Rabat Medina

Cumin and other spices

Locals shopping

Night markets

With surprising contrast locals quickly walked about in colourful traditional floor length clothes, the women's faces veiled, buying their dinner or sitting drinking tea together. Alongside them other woman and men in tailored suits passed by, some in heels others in pointed shoes like something stepping right out of Arabian nights. From a vendor we purchased some green olives doused in a tart pickle paste and two sugar coated donuts, tearing into them as we tried to figure a way out of the dark labyrinth. 

Back out of the Medina we stopped for dinner of chicken and beef Tangine before retiring for the evening, listening to the evening calls of prayer from the crackly speaker on the mosque across the road.

Bab El-Had Gate

The following morning the sun rose earlier than we expected over the white buildings and illuminated the masses of people already walking along the footpaths. Having struggled to not drink the tap water, we went out to dine on fresh brioche and chocolate for breakfast at a small French pasteria. Although it was Friday, a typical day of rest, we walked again through the South side of the old Medina towards the ancient Kasbah quarter. 

Eggs for breakfast?

Marriage belts

Local selling water at the cemetery 

Local water fountain

We slowly moved in an up-hill direction peeking at the locals dressed in hooded capes sitting around drinking mint tea, shucking peas into a bucket or going about their daily business. The coloured buildings we passed looked tired and worn down, with paint peeling from the lower levels and cracks or holes extending out from the windows. They maintained a real lived-in feel and washing hung in the windows drying over the potholed and muddy streets below. Shade sails hung between buildings and rubbish accumulated against the walls. 

Atlantic Ocean view

Bab Oudaia Gate

We passed several large cemeteries stretching for hundreds of meters along the coastline, it's graves all pointing towards Mecca and talked with several of the cats just laying about enjoying the morning sun. 

Eventually we reached what we guessed was the Kasbah and its 20 foot high, fortified golden clay-coloured walls. 





Walking towards the coastline we followed the high walls, which resembles a cornerstone, until we reached the viewpoint of the neighbouring and ancient city of Sale where the sea just blended with the sky; surrounded by the mouth of the Bou Regreg River on one side and the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean. Looking below we could see where the river empties into the sea and where Spanish galleons hot in pursuit of pirates were often caught on a barely submerged sandbar while cannon fire from Kasbah rained down on them. From the terraced viewpoint we entered the now idyllic and picturesque blue and white painted narrow lanes of Kasbah.  

Inside the Kasbah

Inside the Kasbah

The Kasbah was built by Muslim refugees escaping from Spain during the reign of the Almohads (AD1121-1269). Kasbah of the Udayas, built over the Kasbah of the Almoravids, occupies the oldest part of the city. The predominantly residential area was deserted around AD1199 but today is home to many local Moroccans. By far the best part was just aimlessly wandering around the small cool alleys and admiring the stunning doorways. 

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah door

Kasbah window

Returning back to check out of the hotel via the waterfront we were hot, sweaty and tired. The sun continued to bore down and fry us so we dived for cover again in a section of the Medina. We ended up in a dirty market where locals, selling second hands items, haggled for space with rats. 

View of the Kasbah

So we continued on in search of the Hassen tower. The building of the Hassen tower began in 1195AD with the intention of it being the tallest minaret in the world. However as it goes, the Sultan Yacub Al-Mansour died in 1199AD and construction was halted. 

Beautiful doors

Bab Oudaia Gate

At the time of his death the tower only stood at 44 metres, half of its originally planned height. What is most interesting is the Sultan was a member of the Almohad dynasty which also built other grand monuments across southern Spain. 

Three mint teas

Our searching proved futile however, and even when we turned the map up the right way we still couldn't locate the tower. It was too hot and everyone was too hungry so we returned to the hotel. After checking out later we enjoyed an early lunch and although you're not supposed to drink the water at all we did opt for a mint tea and salad.

Hopefully it won't reck vengeance on us later. 

Tot siens,

Kara (Tania/Stu & by association John)

Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain

Work of Gaudi, Barcelona

When they walked through the arrivals gates at Barcelona international terminal they seemed to bounce with energy. They wiggled their overburdened luggage trolley over and, realising how anticipated their arrival was, smothered me in a bear hug. Having made their way across several continents to land in sunny Spain, Kara's parents had finally arrived.

Sagrada Familia

It was a cool morning, there had been a change in the weather leaving the city damp and grey. But nevertheless we quickly boarded an airport express bus to the city centre to begin our exploration in the old Catalan city! 

Already the third trip to Barcelona this year (for our Christmas Barcelona blog click here) everything should have been fairly straight forward, but there was definitely some initial confusion with directions as too where we were really meant to be going. After some unintentional sightseeing we found the hotel right back were we had started. The hotel was on busy La Rambla: a beautiful wide tree-lined road running through the central city which is packed with shops, restaurants and mucho people! It was a great place to drop off the heavy bags we'd already just lugged half way across the city!

Our first adventure after a plate of delicious patatas bravas and two large chicken and bacon bocadillos began Sunday afternoon at the Sagrada Familia. With the full name of the Basilica i Temple Expatori de la Sagrada the church of the holy family towers over Barcelona's skyline. The inspiration of a bookseller, Josep Maria Bocabella who wished to build a temple as atonement for the city's sins of modernity. 

South view, Sagrada Familia

The unintended cathedral was designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926) and became his all-consuming obsession. 

The construction began in 1882 and to this day is still not yet complete. With some good planning on the ticket buying front we aimed to be there an hour before sunset.  

Nativity Facade

Basilica ceiling

As we approached the huge sand castle looking Catholic Cathedral its spires, its glorious crown, grew up over the surrounding apartments. 

Entering easily, not a moment too soon mind you, we clambered up the steps. In front of us a jaw dropping facade towered high above us. This was the nativity scene and it was quite overwhelming. 

Built between 1894 and 1930 it was the first side to be completed and is dedicated to the birth of Jesus. The detail was quite something with statues depicting saints, biblical scenes, images of nature and animals.  

East side door

East side facing interior 

We passed through the large doors covered in sculpted plants and animals and so well executed we could have been walking into a forest, a portal of rich symbology lay ahead of us. 

West side windows

Walking inside the Basilica gives you a glimpse at the immense size of the building. 

A stunning array of huge tree-like columns grow from the floor, supporting and spreading powerfully across an almost vertigo-inducing 200 feet in height. To our left, covering more than two stories the light shone through the large coloured stain-glassed windows, brilliant blues and purples cascading and splashing over the floor. 

We stopped in our tracks, awed and stunned. Across the chapel the West windows basked in a glorious light flooding the corridor with golden yellow, orange and white light, it was all too beautiful. The same way as the attractive main doors symbolised life, the windows too had meaning: representing water, light, poverty, life and resurrection. The whole chapel, columns, windows and doors are full of concrete and symbolic symbols.

Stain-glassed windows

Close up, east side windows

East side windows

East side windows

Afternoon light in the chapel

We nosed around for quiet some time quietly contemplating the modern construction. We ventured out the west door way, the contrasting Passion Facade which resembling the bones of a skeleton jut up plain and simple. Intending to strike fear into the onlooker and represent the severity and brutality of Christ's sacrifice the towering facade faced the setting sun. It's adorned with carved replications of statues portraying the sins of man and true to its intention felt cold, ridged and yet still dramatic.

Passion facade

Bones of Christ

Coming out again on the east side where we had entered we had a quick toilet stop and a mosey in the guest centre. Later that evening we had a short stroll around the city and dined on tapas for dinner. The first day was a big positive tick! 

Returning early the next morning to the Barcelona markets, which had been closed the day before, we let our taste buds guide us. The smells enticing us in different directions and the colours pulling us another way we zipped and zig-zagged through. There were an array of beautiful fruit juices, passion fruit, mango, cherry, pomegranate, coconut and more already mixed and sitting on ice. 

Huge Jamon! 

Fish and chips

We saw stalls of jamon, with waxed brown legs that hung from the roofs. Underneath the counter, there were selections of fresh soft Spanish cheeses, hard yellow cheese from France and cold meats. There were stalls selling speciality products like mushrooms, stuffed olives and eggs from a range of different birds. Others offered easy eating cooked products, little triangle packets of fried fish, octopus or potatoes. 

Fresh fruit; rasberries and figs

Christmas nougat and turron

Fresh fruit juices

Glorious cheeses

Marzipan treats

Take home (eat now) olives

After our breakfast of pimientos de padron, lacon y garbanzo and more bravas we slowly waltzed down the back alleys. The rain the night before left puddles and we traipsed our way behind large gothic buildings towards the beachfront.

Our late breakfast

Barcelona beach!!!

It was still overcast, a tad cloudy and breezy when we arrived at la playa. Although defamed as artificial with sand trucked in from the south the beach was still impressive! 

We opted to take a cable car and after a short wait climbed aboard! Traipsing high over the city we looked down over the blue ocean! There was La Rambla! There's the city park!! Wow, look at the Sagrada Familia! A chorus of excitement bubbled from within the overpacked gondola.

Views of the sea!

Views of the harbour!

Looking back towards Barcelona

On the cable line!

We disembarked at medieval Parc de Montjuïc merely moments before the skies opened, pelting us with big cold drops of rain. There wasn't meant to be rain! It never rains- well it hasn't often in our stay. There was little shade under the tree canopies so we hustled on. The park, translated in Catalan as Jew Mountain is really a broad shallow hill that overlooks the harbour. Eventually arriving at the Palau Nacional Museum, on the west side, which just so happened to be closed on a Monday!!

Palau Nacional Museum
(photo taken from google- it was way to wet to stop!)

Stu, Kara and Tania by the Arc de Triomf

The rain continued to hit down hard and although Stu negotiated a quick trade off a street seller for an umbrella it wasn't enough. We got soaked through! So three o'clock came around and there we were, standing in the rain, hungry, cold, grumpy and a little tired. We made a mad dash. Our saviour was the Arenas Mall, across Plaça d'Espanya. Once a bull fighting ring, it has been transformed into a large commercial complex! So after a warming pizza lunch we ambled around several floors (hoping the rain would dry up) and then adventurously took the metro to the Arc de Triomf.

Cascade in Parc de la Ciutadella

The temperature had dipped quite a bit now and some of the clan didn't have warm jackets. We pushed on, with limited daylight left there was one more stop to make. We walked into the Parc de la Ciutadella or just 'City park'. Past the rollerbladers we walked, past the couples sitting on the wet grass and past the other tourists taking photos.

El Gothico district 

We reached the beautiful Cascada in the park's northern quarter defended by its waterfall and golden Quadriga de l'Aurora sculpture. After a few photos it was time to return to the hotel to warm up. 

We made our way through the lamp-lit streets of el gothico as the sun began to set. We were drawn to the gorgeous wrought iron railings the facades and medieval store fronts.

Then suddenly as we walked around a small dark passage we came across a large wooden door. It was busy with people just kind of standing about around the wall and some in groups walking through so we inquisitively popped our heads in. There stood thirteen white geese. Intrigued by the gaggle we creaked over the wooden floor, delving deeper. 

We had stumbled on the Barcelona Cathedral and it was just exquisite. The open-roofed cloister were we stood under green palm trees was devoted to Barcelona's patron saint, Martyr Eulalia who sadly was tortured to death in the late Roman periods at the tender age of thirteen. 

Inside the Basilica, Barcelona Cathedral

Built in Catalan Gothic style over the site of a Roman temple, the Paleo-Christian church's detailed construction began in 1298. Inside the main basilica, for the second time in two days we were blown away by the impressive chapel, its architecture, paintings and romantic chandeliers. 

We walked around, our tired feet enjoying the moments where we stopped stunned and warmly gazing in awe.

Old brick roofing

Beautiful archways

Stunning Gothic chandeliers 

Wrought iron railing

After a little more self exploration in Barcelona, the intrepid travellers are off to explore Sevilla and Granada, two of our favourite cities in Andalucia, Southern Spain. Kara's already back in Madrid after another tedious eight hour bus ride and we look forward to seeing her parents again on Friday!

Tot siens,

Kara (Tania/Stu and John by association)