Mount Taranaki, Egmont National Park, NZ

Mt Taranaki, sunset view

The wooden lodge offered us warmth and protection from the cold icy winds blow softly outside. We had just finishing cooking our hearty spaghetti bolognese. 

It had been a fantastic day, but it wasn't over. We washed our sticky plates and returned to the outdoor bunk room. We rugged up, hats on, thermals on, jackets on and slowly followed the muddy path east for five minutes towards the lookout plateau we'd seen coming in. 

Approaching the mountain

The sky earlier had been thick with fog and low lying cloud but now the early evening was clear and the sun was almost setting.

We had driven to the Egmont National Park visitor center this morning around 9am.

Parking our homey van in the almost empty visitors' carpark and with a paper printout of the Pouakai circuit route we had set off. It was a beautiful morning, cool and crisp, blue and clear. 

I'm ready too!

I'm ready!

Ready to go! Let's get going! 

Off to do the Pouakai Circuit

Carpark views!

Towering above lay volcanic Mt Taranaki, it's glorious snow-capped top slowly melting with the ongoing spring temperatures. The sun shone on our backs as we walked and it wasn't long before we were stopping to peel off a layer. In front of us we estimated that there was 3-4 hours of walking before we stopped for lunch and after lunch an additional 2-3hours.

The path started off slowly, meandering through the low bracken and sub-alpine scrub. Our boots crunched on the dark gravel path and we listened to the rustle of little animals under the plants beside us. 

First look out spot! 

Enjoying the sunshine!

Views across the Taranaki region

Checking the map at the Razorback

We didn't pass or see anyone for the first twenty minutes, our own heavy breaths keeping us company. The path continued to slowly gain altitude as we took the Razorback route over a sharp ridge. The view behind us grew larger until we realized we were actually already higher than the clouds. The Razorback was tough going, more clothing layers came off. 

We stopped for water and photos admiring the path before us that cut across the mountain. After succeeding the sharp incline we came across several dry rocky lava columns. 

Looking back at the path 

There was no one else around and our cell reception was intermittent, the danger! Crossing one by one we eyed up the risk carefully. 

We confidently decided to make the crossing and soon were on our way again. By 11am having walked faster than we anticipated we arrived at the Holly hut. The 32 bunk bed cabin was just saying goodbye to a small group on their way down the mountain.

Warning! Proceed with caution

Carefully crossing the lahar slip

We decided here would be a great place for lunch so out came the canned tuna, crackers, juice boxes, biltong and peanuts and our guide book. By now it was warm enough that the grass was dry, but cool enough that we had to put our jackets back on since we'd stopped moving. 

So with our backs against the wooden cabin and our faces to the sun we ate our hearty feast enjoying the quiet scenery around us and reading about the volcano's mythology. 

According to Maori legend Mount Taranaki is a mountain being that lived peacefully for many centuries in the centre of New Zealand's North Island. His brothers were Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu.

Nearby stood Mount Pihanga. Covered in a cloak of deep green forest she presented a stunning sight and all the mountain gods were in love with her.

Weeping Mt Taranaki

Taranaki dared to make advances to Pihanga and was reproached by Tongariro and a mighty battle ensued between them. The earth shook and the sky became dark as the mountains belched forth their anger. When the battle ended the lovely Pihanga stood close by Tongariro's side. Taranaki, wild with grief and jealously, angrily wrenched his roots from the ground and left.

Weeping, he plunged towards the setting sun, gouging out a deep wide trench. When he reached the sea he turned north and stumbled up the coast. As he slept that night the Pouakai Ranges snared and trapped Taranaki in the place he now rests.

The next day a stream of clear water sprang from the side of Tongariro. It flowed down the deep scar Taranaki had left on his journey to the coast to form the Whanganui River. There are those who say that Taranaki is silently brooding and will one day try to return inland again to fight Tongariro. Consequently, many Māori were wary of living in the area between the mountains. 

As we rested waiting for our meal to digest the sun decided to hide behind the clouds. We didn't realize it, but that was the last time that afternoon we would see it. Once we were ready we set off again, there was another five kilometers until our evening destination; the Pouakai hut.

Crossing the boardwalk

Cliffs of the mountain

Ahukawakawa swamp

After circling around and over one of the large volcanic valleys, stumbling over the path which was imbedded with rocks and roots we descended into the Ahukawakawa swamp.

The muddy, wet and slushy swamp is believed to have formed 3500 years ago. It's protected around its perimeter by large hills and provides a unique microclimate for all kinds of insects, animals and plants. 

Swamp lands

The path leading through the swamp was our highlight so far. The wooden boards slippery and wet squished under our feet as we hopped across. The trail was very worn, very muddy and very wet. Some of the path was half submerged into the swamp other areas had newer reinforced wooden bridges. It was quiet as we walked through, a group of walkers in front of us indecipherably  murmured to each other. 

Crossing over we entered an upward ascent through a thick wall of cedar trees. Grey clouds were spilling over the blue sky an although we were walking quickly up the mountain, it was getting cooler. We climbed higher marching over the uneven steps looking for the Pouakai Hut track turn off. 

As we veered around another bend the air started to become thicker. We were in the clouds! We wondered, did we really walk so high? It was quite cold and a snappy wind bit at our jackets.

Starting to get cold as the clouds move in

Walking through the fog was surreal. We could hardly see a thing, and we were barely able to make out the track in front of us. 

Aware that the cliff edge could be close, and steep we kept to the right along the mud clay-like hillside. Ever so often we would slip a little, pulling our boots from the sucking mud. 

Arrived at Pouakai Hut

Eventually the path flattened out into a large dry plateau a sign pointed to a lookout but chuckling to ourselves we though it would be best to find the hut and try to warm up instead. Still above the tree line and hidden within a protected crest it was only a few minutes later we arrived and walked in. 

Excitingly we were the first ones to arrive at the 'first come first served' hut. We signed in at the location register and had a nosy around the small dining area, the attached eight bed dorm, the long kitchen bench and the neighbouring sleep-out with a further eight beds. We chose the outdoor beds with the back-facing wall behind the fireplace that we though would be nice and cozy and hopefully other guests arriving later might choose the inside dorm. 

Evening view watching the clouds roll away

The hut didn't have wifi so it was a great opportunity for us to bring out our phase10 cards and have a competitive game- looser does the dishes of-course! The hut also had a wide selection of reading material other hikers had left behind which we had a browse through.

A few relaxing hours later found us rugged up and following the muddy path to the lookout plateau. The sun, just setting, shaded the sky in soft pinks and blues. 

We could see the moon and the air was fresh and crisp. We played around for a while waiting for whiffs of clouds to pass so that we could get a clear shot of Taranaki. 

Mount Taranaki

Early morning view

John by the Tarns

Early the next morning, after a restless night's sleep caused by the snoring of other hikers (who had decided that they liked the outside dorm too) we ate a quick tuna and rice breakfast and set off.

We wanted to be back at the van for a late lunch and the hut logs estimated a 5-7hour hike to the visitor's centre. The path we had walked yesterday was covered in frost this morning. It cracked under our boots and flicked water up the backs of our pants. We crossed the plateau where we took photos the night before and continued on. 

Views of Mt Taranaki

Hopping over the rock

For thirty minutes we walked carefully balancing ourselves and stepping cautiously. We traversed open tussock lands, the ground soft under the thin layer of ice. We made a stop at the scenic alpine tarns. An area with three beautiful dark blue lakes.

It was still cold, our fingers freezing even through our hands were gloved. The lakes were so picturesque. We walked around them taking some photos. It would have been a fabulous place to sit and have a coffee, if we had some. 

Crossing the swinging bridge

Waterfalls down the mountain

The path continued and we were directed to Maude Peak. In front of us the path zig-zagged and climbed along boardwalks; not just this hill but the one behind. When we squinted our eyes in the morning light, we could see the path for hundreds of meters in front of us parting its way through the bush-like mosses and a green tree-like sea. The second hill was Henry peak (1220m) and we plundered up passing the odd early morning trekker cascading the steep steps and climbing the aluminium ladders.

Mmm... finally lunchtime!

As we made it to the top a biting wind hit us. The view was amazing with a 360 degree panoramic all around. We took a break here before hitting the newly made wooden steps down the other side. As we went down we joined onto the Kaiauai track and walked alongside before crossing the Kai Auahi stream. We hadn't seen anyone for a long time but of-course a group turned up right when we decided to jump off trail for a toilet break! The track took us over tiny suspension bridges, past waterfalls and beautiful bush. We moved quickly jumping across the drying rocks. Following the last part of the circuit on the road we returned to the van. 

We sat at the long wooden picnic table cooking our chickpea and leftovers on the little cooker we keep in the van. Famished we gobbled it down, used the visitor centre bathrooms and were happily on our way.

Tot siens,

John and Kara