Christchurch and Oamaru, South Island, New Zealand

Coming across the Canterbury plains

It was late afternoon by the time our scenic train chugged across the wide flat Canterbury plains and into the largest city in the South Island: Christchurch. 

We were tired and the cool air that rushed at us as we exited the train wasn't all that pleasant. It had been raining and the footpaths were still damp; there was a strange smell of earth that lingered in the humid air. We were a little grumpy and hungry and ready for bed! 

However our rental relocation wasn't ready for pickup until tomorrow and with a confusion over dates we hadn't booked somewhere to stay! The last leg of our train journey had been a back and forth negotiation with the local hostels (which was utterly fruitless) as the train moved in and out of reception. We were very fortunate that John's sister had pulled some strings and we were offered a bed with local resident: Robbie, who thankfully, was happily waiting for us at the train station on our arrival. She happily bounced along the wet tarmac carpark and proceeded to take us on a tiki tour drive around of the city, excited to show us around. Her enthusiasm lifted our spirits and we ogled out of the windows.

When the clocks stopped at 12.51pm

It's been over eighteen months since the devastating February ’11 earthquakes which struck Christchurch, the garden city. As we drove through the streets it was hard to not feel a sense of sadness at the loss and devastation the natural disasters had caused. The streets were still bent, cracked, twisted and full of potholes. Houses had half crumbled down, many had been left abandoned, this year's winter having taken its toll. There was a lot of tape everywhere, in parks around bus stops and over walls. 

Fences were held up by scaffolding and as we drove through the city, many roads were still blocked off. There was rubbish in the form of bricks and asphalt everywhere. Weeds grew up from unkept council gardens smothering the torn footpaths. 

However Robbie was very optimistic and, like a ray of sunshine beaming through the clouds, was quietly adamant that the quakes have bought Christchurch together, making it stronger as a community. "We will rebuild" she said. After our short tour we returned for a delicious meal followed by an early night. It was wonderful to sit and chat by the fire place and then snuggle into a real bed again! 

Mr Austin Powers- our 'ride'

It was around 10am when we first set our eyes on our new home at the relocation depot. A ‘wicked’ camper that we dubbed Mr Austin Powers because well clearly it suited better than calling it the shagg'in wagon. So we set forth on what was turning out to be a beautiful sunny day. Taking state highway one down the east coast we left Christchurch and set the GPS towards Oamaru. Just three hours south of Christchurch on the long stretchy state highway one is Oamaru. A small harbour town with a population of around 14,000. Oamaru (meaning the place of Maru) has been inhabited by Maori since 1100AD and then was (re)discovered by Captain Cook in 1770. The Oamaru bay was later visited by whalers and sealers in 1840. The area was later settled by Europeans in the 1850's who began designing the town in Victorian style using strong white Oamaru stone that was quarried nearby. 

Welcome to Oamaru

Vintage stores in Oamaru

Tyde Street, Oamaru

Whitestone cheese platter for one

So we drove into Oamaru making a quick stop for some fresh air and lunch in Timaru. Visiting Oamaru is meant to be like taking a step back in time. The old buildings are beautiful and the town is believed to have taken in an other-worldly air.

As we arrived we stumbled across something very pleasing to the eye! Tasting cheese from "local milk produced on sweet limestone country"; well they had us at cheese. 

So carefully swerving the Austin Powers van into a carpark we toddled over to check out Whitestone's Cheese gallery. An hour well served savouring some very well made artisan cheese. Thank you Oamaru! 

Oamaru hat maker

Union store, J.C Smith building

Exploring Oamaru township

But what we really wanted to see in Oamaru were the penguins! Both the blue penguins who live in a protected colony along the water's edge and the endangered yellow-eyed penguins call Oamaru home. 

Looking up Thames Street

The elusive yellow-eyed penguin has an estimated population of only 4000 worldwide and is considered one of the most rarest and possibly the most ancient species of penguin. 

We read online that the best time to 'spot' a penguin is at sunset when the penguins make their way in from the sea to nest for the evening. So in order to spot a penguin we had a couple more hours up our sleeves to explore Oamaru. 

Steampunk art museum

We parked in the small Victorian city centre; it was a quiet afternoon and not much seemed open. Actually there was hardly a soul around as we walked down along Tyne street. 

Oamaru is certainly pretty in an eclectic kind of way. We explored a church and poked our heads in cute little gift shops before finishing up in the beautiful Oamaru gardens. Time flew by and soon the sunset was nearing so we opted to go see the yellow-eyed penguins first (which are in a different bay to the blue penguins) and drove out to Bushy Beach reserve. 

Bushy Beach Bay

It was a relatively short drive through the farmlands and hopping from the car we took the scenic bush walk towards the two viewing platforms. Having been hammered with recent rain, the paths were muddy and it was freezing cold. 

The icy southerly wind pushed against our Kathmandu jackets and we even wobbled a bit in the wind. Below us was a beautiful albeit wild piece of New Zealand coastline. 

Yellow-eyed penguin resting in the grass

We trekked to the main platform and while we waited read about the penguin's lifecycle.

There were a few other onlookers waiting when we arrived at the second more exposed area but it didn't take long until several penguins glided from the sea and scampered onto the golden sand! 

Little guy trekking on the beach

We stood for over an hour huddled against the cold, watching the penguins go about their daily routines in the natural reserve. 

In total we saw about six penguins. Several even climbed the bank to get a closer look at us. It was eventually difficult to tell who was watching who. Some raced from the water into the bush and others sat on the beach preening themselves. 

It was amazing to watch them in their natural habitat. 

Tot siens,

John and Kara