Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

This was the plaque on the hospital building - the first
settlers arrived in 1803

After several days in Melbourne city, we took an early-bird Jetstar flight to the small colonial city of Hobart in Tasmania. As far south as you can go, Tasmania is a small island off Australia's southern coastline. 

Hobart was grey and cloudy but we were instantly captivated by the blue harbor and green mountains beneath us as the plane flew down into Hobart. 

Refurbished barracks

Meeting with Kara's great aunt who picked us up at the airport, we then peered out from the windows of her car. Our initial impression was that the city looked old, but charming. As we drove past the waterfront she explained what some of the buildings were and how old they were.

The waterfront city of Hobart, is absolutely brimming with history from the first English colonizations. Originally intended as a convict settlement, the town was founded in 1807 and became Australia's second official English settlement. 

Boat after boat of criminals and often wrongly convicted felons were brought out from the motherland and stationed on the wild Southern coast. Without ever a chance of escaping the isolated peninsula, convicts lead hard lives cutting rock, building the first stone houses and surviving on little rations provided. 

Hobart's calm harbour 

As part of the relocation military barracks were built for soldiers which included a military hospital. Completed in 1818 the hospital is now Australia’s oldest continually occupied residential building. This is where Kara's aunts were currently living. The hospital was closed in the early 1900's and has since been refurbished with great care being taken on preserving the interior. The home, still has the original surgery... in which we were told several 'presences' maybe still live. 

Boats in the Marina

Hobart first settlers cemetery walk

The island's functioning military barracks was our base from which we spent 4 fabulous days exploring Hobart with our hosts (Helen and Kate) who are fabulous supporters of all things delicious! Aside from the rich history, Hobart is also a bit of a food and wine lover's hub and supports a strong art culture. 

If that's not your cup of tea, Tasmania has amazing natural national parks, some where you can even find the infamous Tasmanian devil! This little ferocious fluffy brown marsupial population is rapidly declining. There are tales that the first settlers were absolutely terrified by the cries of the small animal, perceiving it as something much larger and wild. As punishment, men were sent into the bush late at night as the gruesome shrills echoed over the camps.

After arriving in Hobart, the weather  remained cool so we wrapped up warm and went for a walk to the waterfront. On our way down we were sidetracked by signs pointing to the Lark Distillery and cellar door. One of Australia's leading distilleries with a large range of malt whiskey and Tasmanian gin we thought we'd better stop in for a look. 

Still thirsty? Another quick stop!  

John's a bit bigger than the average Australian  

On Thursday, we decided to take a day trip down the harbour to the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA). Underestimating our walking speed, and a little behind schedule we raced to the wharf, running to get tickets and board the boat, which, never actually departed on time making us look like silly panicking foreigners.

Coming up from the wharf the museum doesn't seem so large, deceptively built into the yellow sandstone rock. But like an iceberg most of the treasure and size is below the surface. The acclaimed 'Disneyland for adults' is simple and unassuming and we climbed up along a beautiful yet jagged yellow sandstone exterior.

Art at the Mona Museum

MONA was amazing, built by David Welsh, one of Australia's wealthiest men who made his money through online gambling. The privately owned museum collection is hand picked by David and it seemed he has a fascination with anything which invokes an emotional reaction. In particular we noticed his fascination with death, all things dying and also he seems to kneel towards work of a sexual orientation. The fifteen meter wall of plastercast vaginas quietly stopped us in our tracks, but so did the intricately designed webs of pixie fairies and the small room only filled with television screens displaying folks singing Madonna songs. 

Animal lifecycle

Hands-on art

Ancient Egyptian tile

Indigenous mask

What we really liked about the experience is that on entry you're provided with an iPod 'the O' that acts as an audio guide and personal art informant that picks up your location as you move through the exhibits. The app allows you to rate the art and shows you what other people think too, that weird snake like painting you'd want to only keep in the garage? People like it!? We loved that several of the pieces were hands on, for example you could use your natural pulse to charge a light bulb. There were some exhibits that were outstanding, like a room that shows how the human defecation system works, that included smells and natural 'defecation'.

Drip waterfall, MONA

Of course no trip is really exciting without some kind of unexpected event. While we were safely exploring three stories underground, a freak weather storm hit Hobart. There was even a mini tornado which blew roofs of houses and up at ground level blew some of the outdoor art apart. 

As we surfaced there were firetrucks cleaning the mess, really none the wiser we walked to the Museum wine bar for a free tasting.

Hobart Rivulet linear Park Track

A small Pademelon

During the afternoon and next morning we strolled around Hobart city. We put on our boots and walked along the Hobart Rivulet linear Park Track marching next to the small river which ends at the Cascade Brewery. Australia's oldest remaining brewery, established in 1832 we thought we better stop by for a tasting! What was fascinating about the track was the small stocky animals running around in the undergrowth. A dark brown colour with a lighter belly the unusually named Pademelon were fun to spot! 

Walking boots on!

Sampling the beer of the oldest brewery in
Australia - Cascade

On the way back we made a bypass to the Cascades female factory historic site. This former female convict workhouse was built in 1828 and used to 'reform' female convicts brought to Australia as criminals and servants. Used to protect society from the immoral and corrupting influence of convicts the site is now a museum that depicts the hard life of minimal rations and days of long labour. Just imagining life in those times, living in squalor between the cold stand stone walls is immensely sad. 

On Saturday morning we explored the Salamanca market which run up from the waterfront. The very popular market, with now well over 300 stalls has been running since 1971 and attracts between 25,000-40,000 people every week. 

Musicians at the Salamanca market

Small children's trinkets

Homemade knit wear

Exploring the infamous Salamanca market in Hobart

There was certainly something for everyone, fresh fruits and vegetables, intricate knitted tea pot cossies, beautiful red wood Tasmanian cheese boards, scented candles, and food- so much food. John tried the local curried scallop pie and we both moved around smelling the home made fudge and pastries, German bratwursts, Spanish donuts covered in sweet chocolate and grilled seafoods.

A curried scallop pie in Hobart - had to be tried!

Kara enjoying a plate of Tassie oysters

Afterwards we all hopped in the car and Kara's Aunts took us on an extended tour of Hobart. Firstly from under its foothills we drove up the towering Mt Wellington. Flanked by green pines and walking trails the mountain rises steeply and even in summer the top can be brushed with snow. First named Table Mountain for it's large, broad, flat top it was later renamed after the Duke of Wellington, who beat Napoleon in the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.

View across Hobart and towards Arthers Point

It was mighty cold up on the mountain, as the wind drove sharply up the rocky side. Glad we had brought sweaters we admired the stunning panoramic down over the city and harbour. It only took one warning to be on the lookout for snakes and Kara was keen to get back in the car. 

Climbing around the rocks

The Pinnacle, Mt Wellington, 1270m

On top of Mt Wellington, Hobart
with our fabulous hosts Helen and Kate.

We chugged back down the steep mountain side, glad we hadn't braved a walk all the way up and drove through the old town, Kara's aunt pointing out again special buildings including an old wooden Christian church which, surprisingly, relatives of Kara were married in late in the 1800's. The Holy Trinity Church on Warwick street is now a building of National heritage. 

The Holy Trinity Church, Hobart

Eaglehawk Neck Dog statue

We drove on down the Port Arthur peninsula towards Prisoners' point. This almost isolated stretch of coastal land was dotted with farms, a sea on either side. 

Port Arthur penal colony was the destination for the hardest of convicted British criminals and secondary offenders. Guarded by half starved dogs, soldiers and man traps there was little chance of escape. We detoured through Risdon Cove, where the first settlers landed although due to lack of fresh water supply moved on. 

Travelling to Ridson Cove, Hobart 

Reaching an amazing coastal formation we took a break to glare at the natural blow holes, Tasman's arch and the Devil's kitchen.

Tasman's arch

Beautiful caves in the rock

Overall the small sample of Tasmania we did see was wonderful and we can’t wait to go back one day and explore more! We would like to extend a very big, sincere thank you to Helen and Kate for hosting us.

Tot siens,

John and Kara