Tsukiji fish-market, Tokyo, Japan

Waiting in line outside

The alarm on John's phone buzzed and vibrated on the computer table, it was 1.50am. We didn't speak, we didn't even look at each other, we just focused on moving our aching limbs through a foggy haze of our overpowering drowsiness. 
John said "I'm going to get an ice-cream, I'll get you a coffee". Mouth too dry and parched to speak yet Kara raised her eyebrows and nodded simultaneously. 

We had spent the last six hours cramped together in a 1.2 by 1metre cubicle, half under a computer desk, smothered by cigarette smoke and our skulls perpetrated by the continual soft tapping on keyboards.

We both stood by the free drinks and soft serve machine, our six hour time limit was due to expire in only six minutes. 

Inside the Tsukiji Market

It had been another cheap night at a comical manga cafe. Outside on the dark cold street we begun our walk down towards the Tsukiji fish-market. 

Tokyo's wholesale market just outside of the upscale Ginza neighbourhood is home to the world's largest and busiest tuna auction and seafood market. 


Over two thousand tons of fresh and frozen marine products are brought in every evening and auctioned off the following morning and then shipped or freighted over the entire country. It is hectic, fast paced and loud. In order to attend as an official guest you need to arrive VERY early, so there we were on our way at 2am in the morning. 

Tsukiji Market is made up of an inner market, where most of the wholesale business and the famous tuna auctions occur, and an outer market with retail shops and restaurants which cater to the general public. 

Pre- auction assessments

Let the auction begin!

Big healthy tuna

Ready to buy- at the auction

The number of visitors to the tuna auction is limited to 120 people per day and in order to get in on the action we needed to apply for a permit on-site.

Sussing out the quality

As first ones to arrive at the Osakana Fukyu Center (Fish Information Center) it was a long cold wait until when the doors opened at 5am. But this was first come first served and we didn't want to miss out! At around 4.15am a really long line had already formed outside and the first sixty people were invited inside a small waiting room. 

We collected our fluorescent green safety vests and waited patiently, sitting on the lino floor waiting to be ushered out into a neighbouring shed. 

We remember thinking at the time that perhaps more sleep would make the experience far more enjoyable, however once in the auction building the bright lights, fascinating speed of the auction and size of the tuna captivated us. Bidders walked around with hooked iron sticks every so often taking a great whack at the fish, testing it for maybe bounce? Maybe tear-ability? Maybe there was some special fish whacking technique.

Checking out the tuna- pre auction

Front row at the auction

This tuna's had a few whacks already

It was very, very cold in the auction house and all around us people raced on small forklifts, moving the fish around. 

That's so big fish

In front of us and behind us two auctions were taking place at immense speeds. At the sides of the room men were using huge carving swords to effortlessly slice the fish, passing them across the table to someone else who, with less grace hacked up the pieces of giant tuna. 

Boxes of fresh seafood were being carted constantly across the room on motorised scooters at phenomenal speed. 

Delivery van on its way out

After twenty minutes we moved back outside, the sun was slowly rising and the sky was a purple blue hue. 

Chopping up the fish

The onslaught and frenzy of traffic hadn't decreased in the wholesale area as more hacking and chopping was taking place and delivery vehicles queued, loading boxes of the freshly purchased stock. We were able to wander quietly through the wholesale market in the inner sanction for another twenty minutes before returning our vests and being ushered towards the outer market.

Freshly cut tuna

Frozen Tuna

Fisherman John

Cutting the fish 

By then we were starving and went off on a hunt for breakfast. There are restaurants both in the inner and outer market area, but we were also interested in checking out the smaller retail stalls open to the public so we followed some others (who seemed to know where they were going) to a line of tiny small restaurants. 

By now, queues were already forming outside some and thinking quickly we entered a small door covered with hanging black and white cloth, where people were milling but were still indecisive on what they wanted! 

Sitting at the bar, barely keeping our eyes open, we were so grateful the menu had pictures. 

We went a little food-crazy and certainly ordered more than the average Japanese would. 

Starting with piping hot green tea we got tuna rolls with wasabi and ginger, miso soup and we each had a platter of fresh sushi. So fresh that were sure it was still wiggling about even after we had seen the chef chop it up, right in front of us. 

Our chef preparing the breakfast

Sushi time!

Welcome to Tsukiji

Tuna starter with soya sauce

Although it was an early start and bound to be a long day, munching down on the freshest sushi for breakfast made it all worthwhile. 

Fresh sushi platter for breakfast 

After a second glass of tea we thanked our chef personally and went in search of the outer seafood sanction. 

Tea cups in the restaurant

Outside hordes of white polystyrene buckets held oodles of fish, crabs, octopus and other seafoods in the multitude of alleys. Everything is at the Tsukiji market from whale meat to sea urchin. If it lives under the sea you'll find it in Tokyo. There were fascinating looking animals that we had never seen before, salesmen shucking fresh oysters and small sellers enticing buyers with their beautiful displays.

Fish eggs

Crayfish

Oysters

Fish and Squid

Fresh squid

As we left the bustling market, on the way to the train station we bought two memento tea mugs at an antique store. It was already mid-morning but we were looking forward to a lie down.

Tot siens,

John and Kara