Where are John and Kara?: León, Castile-León, North West Spain

León coat of arms

After less than seven days back in Madrid, but after five long arduous early starts and big working days, it's time for another adventure!

We're getting good at these early starts, waking in the early autumn darkness, we were up well before the birds and ate a hearty bus-ready breakfast. Today, unfortunately, John couldn't make this trip due to study but joined as far as the metro entrance! The basement bargain five euro bus trip from Madrid to Leon left from Madrid's Estacion de Sur (not exactly close to our house) and after a delayed start the bus was eventually on the road, driving high through flat, dry fields of the central Meseta plateau... for five hours! Argh! Should have totally checked that first- Not realising how far North Leon was, in hindsight I would not have eaten all my bus snacks in the first hour.

Plaza Iglesias San Marcelo

Although the journey was pleasant and the women across me nearly looked like she was maybe going to share her chocolate, I caught up on some sleep and it was good to finally arrive. This was only a day trip and I'd lost at least two hours in getting the bus timetable confused so into the city heart I marched, down the broad boulevard! Ohh jeepers it was cold! Outside, against the neighbouring pharmacy wall a green temperature gauge blinked 19°C but it was already 1pm! Holding my jacket a little closer, first stop was the tourist information centre located in the Plaza Iglesias San Marcelo.

Bubble making-Calle Ancha

Calle Ancha

Leon is the smallish capital city of the Castile-Leon region in Spain's Northwest province of Leon and isn't far below the Asturias province (that's one of the most Northern areas of Spain). Size wise, it is currently the largest city in Castile-Leon and was originally founded as a Roman military encampment around 29BC. But what I first noticed, walking down the Main Street were the bright flowers, hanging from potted balconies! So beautiful!

The old centre was alive and people flooded the streets. Guests from a church wedding flooded out across the road and families were settling in for tapas across the plazas. With my map in hand and my stomach growling, the next stop was toward barrio humeda (the wet neighbourhood) for lunch. This old part of town has all the traditional Spanish alleys, tiny crooked and wobbly stone paths and has acquired a reputation, a play on its name, for the multitude of bars and places to drink.

So venturing into its depths opened a huge possibility of lunch options! Wandering around it was hard to make up my mind, sunny tables of the slightly downhill terrace looked inviting and in a region that takes food as seriously (if not more so) than religion I was in for a treat. Restaurants offered a multitude of free tapas.

Morcilla on patatas

Cider and Sardines

Eventually I chose a traditional meson bar and sat up against the busy wooden counter. Along with my white wine I received a free tapa. (Here you could choose which local tapa you prefer). I chose morcilla heavily dolloped on freshly fried patatas, something recommend by a student's father. Certainly something I wouldn't order normally especially after a few yiky run-ins (to clarify it's cooked pig blood sausage) but this was amazing! Soft and creamy with a mild spiced flavour served a bit like pâté.

Following this I grabbed what I thought was another bargain a little bit down and around the corner: a huge bottle of natural (unsweetened) cider and a plate of lightly battered and fried sardines. When I managed to get through the 700mls I had quite a buzz happening. By then, the sun was finally heating the city, warming the buildings. I ventured down, first to the plaza mayor which was chocker block, filled to the brim with a farmers market.

Beautiful town hall, Plaza Mayor

Little white tents bobbled across the tiled plaza covering their fruits and vegetables. On the western side the beautiful town hall towered over the plaza watching everybody carrying out their Saturday afternoon shopping.

Outside the Cathedral

A little lost in the network of streets I stumbled out very close to the Cathedral de Leon, but since it was closed (lunchtime) I followed my map to the Basilica de San Isidro.

The gothic-style Basilica de San Isidro was founded in 1063 to house the remains of the city's patron saint: San Froilán. Located on the sight of an ancient Roman temple of Mercury, and a tenth century monastery dedicated to John the Baptist. Underneath the Basilica's medieval royal pantheon today lay eleven kings, numerous queens and many noblemen in polychrome vaults. After a quick look around inside then I moseyed back to the Cathedral de Leon.

Man attacking what looks like a dragon?

Cathedral de León

Basilica de San Isidoro

Following the scollops

From the Basilica to the Cathedral I followed a short part of the cobbled Camino de Santiago that travels through the city. This famous pilgrim walk (discussed more in our Logrono blog) is depicted by it's well known brassed scollop shell markers, set on the footpaths. Looking out for their golden glisten I passed ancient doorways, hostels and pensions full of walkers. Following the pilgrim footfalls I was back at the 13th century catholic cathedral in no time. Demanding attention with its bearing presence and gothic stonework the cathedral was once a palace commissioned by King Ordoño II during the Spanish reconquista. After the successful battle of San Esteban de Gormaza against the Arabs in 917 the King grateful to god dedicated the palace as a sacred place. His tomb apparently lies under the ancient stonework, built into the Cathedral after his death in 924. With my entry ticket I received an audio-guide and with it up against my ear stepped into the dark looming cathedral.

Panoramic at the back of the Cathedral

The main attraction: quite possibly some of the most stunning stain-glassed windows adorned the church's lofty interior. Over 1800 square meters of coloured glass display intricate biblical stories and the glass shone, sparkling as the sun penetrated them; laying truth to it's alternative name: the house of light. Many windows are even original, dating back to the 13th-15th centuries. I walked around with the audio-guide plastered to my ear the illumination of vivid blues, firey reds, yellows, greens and deep purples danced in front of my eyes, moving with me as I circled the perimeter.

Central area

Side view

Returning a little starry-eyed into the bright sunshine outside I followed Avenida de Los Cubos around behind the church and traced the perimeter of an ancient roman wall. The wall ended again, morphing into the backside of the Basilica de San Isidro where I turned and walked back to the central area.