Zeeland & Ghent, Flanders, NL and Belgium

Driving through the Netherlands low lands

Another weekend, another race! This Saturday we drove south into the Flanders region and province of Zeeland or 'sea-land'. 

The province, located in the south-west of the country, is made up of a number of islands and peninsulas. As the Netherlands is such a small country it was a relatively short drive across the flooded lowlands. 

There are two things interesting about Zeeland, the first is that it's New Zealand's namesake. Our little New Zealand was first discovered by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman in 1642, although he did not land in New Zealand, the Dutch authorities still named it Nova Zeelandia in Latin, Nieuw Zeeland in Dutch. It was the English Captain James Cook who subsequently anglosaxionised it and called our old home New Zealand.

Kara has her number!

John ready at the start line

The second thing was that Zeeland had an ancient goddess, which sounds pretty cool. Nehalennia, of either Celtic or pre-Germanic origin was a regional goddess who was worshiped around the 2nd century BC. During the Roman Era, her main function appeared to be the protection of travellers, especially seagoing travellers crossing the North Sea. Not at all unlike us, except the bit about the boats. However to get to the town of Terneuzen where our race started we did have to cross the sea, so we're sure that counts. 

Running right to the end, over there!

Because the province of Zeeland is made up of islands and peninsulas it was a widely contested area until 1299, when the last Count of Holland died and the Count of Hainaut took over. "That's my island!" "No that's my island", kind of thing. 

Staying at our Airbnb, Ghent

After the Hainuats, the counts of Bravia, Burgundy and then the Hasburgs all took control of the area. It gained its independence as a province under the Hasburgs of Flanders in 1585 and although fighting resumed for many centuries it was only after the eighty years war that Zeeland moved into the kingdom of the Netherlands (but just to make things confusing, part of it remains in the Flanders region).  

To recap briefly on the race, it was TOUGH. Tough with full capitals, battling against a 64kilomter per hour (gale force 6) head wind the ancient goddess Nehalennia wasn't on our side. In fact she was probably downright mad about something. Different from our past events this ten kilometre track, was five kilometres one way and a five kilometre return, so we made excellent times in the first five with the wind on our back and had an abysmal return. It was more physically exhausting than any race yet, but undefeated we finished and conquered it. 

After catching our breaths, we moved on down to Ghent, just a mere 30 kilometres south, ready to recover with all kinds of delicious Belgium delicacies. 

Exploring Grootkanonplein

Fancy-looking post office

Ghent is a city of history. During the Middle Ages, it was one of the richest and most powerful cities in Europe. It still breathes an atmosphere of a thriving late-medieval city state having been restored, but it certainly isn't as popular as Brussels or Bruges. Today, Ghent is also a university city with more than 60,000 students. We arrived into Ghent in no time, checking in at our Airbnb and then making our way into the old city centre.

Sint Jakobskerk

Waffles all round

Warming our bellies

View over Sint-Michielshelling

Ghent goes back in time so far that archaeological evidence shows human presence in the region as far as the Stone and Iron Age. It was when the Franks invaded the Roman territories (from the end of the 4th century and well into the 5th century) they brought their language with them and Celtic and Latin were replaced by Old Dutch. The Frank's were responsible for much of Ghent's growth (similar to Antwerp and Bruges) and built large abbeys (St Peter's and St Bavos) which acted like nuclei, attracting residents, traders and workers. In 851 and 879, the old city was attacked and plundered twice by the then undefeated Vikings.

The towers of Jakobskerk

But with the protection of the Flanders, the city recovered and flourished from the 11th century. 

By the 13th century, Ghent was huge and up to 65,000 people lived within the city walls. During the Middle Ages, Ghent was the leading city for cloth and sheep herding was good business. 

Disappointingly for us though, it turned out to be a cold and wet afternoon. The rain drizzled a little and then moved on, drizzled a little more and moved on but it consistently stayed cold. 

We found somewhere to keep warm and enjoyed the afternoon from inside a cozy bar, drinking wheat beer and eating Belgium chocolates.

John walking along the Leie river canal

On Sunday we were up early, probably a little dehydrated from yesterday's efforts but as the morning looked clear we didn't dilly dally around. We left in search of the city's historic sites knowing that everyone else would be enjoying a sleep-in and that we could walk the streets in peace! But after we arrived, the old centre was already buzzing with life. Small flea markets were in their initial stages of setting up in the cobbled squares and waffle trucks were already warming up, their aroma sickly sweet. 

Grey shutters on the Dutch style house

All the faces!

Crossing the almost still Leie river we found we were alone and enjoyed a few minutes of quiet, staring up at the medieval Dutch houses, wondering what life must have been like hundreds of years ago when the houses were built.

Dutch style homes

Houses caught in the sun

Strolling around the empty squares

Amazing Dutch style and decoration

Approaching Gravensteen Castle

Gravensteen Castle, Ghent

Coming around a corner we encountered the Gravensteen Castle, which was built in 1180 by count Philip of Alsace. 

First built as a wooden castle in the ninth century it served as the seat of Flanders until they abandoned it in the 14th century. The castle was then used as a courthouse, a prison and eventually decayed. 

Houses were built against the walls and even on the courtyard and the stones of the walls were used to erect other buildings. At the end of the 19th century, the castle was scheduled to be demolished but was bought by the city and restored. We walked around its moat and marvelled at how the huge castle sits idly within a busy city centre as if it almost has been zapped from the past into our future. The photo can hardly do it justice.

Statue in Vrijdagmarkt

Gravensteen Castle, moat side

Outside the restored houses

John heading away from Sint Niklaaskerk

Panoramic of the Korenmarkt

Sint Michielskerk

We enjoyed plodding about until we were hit with a passing rain shower and had to take refuge! 

It was time for a late breakfast anyway! After our pit-stop we hit the cobbled streets again and explored the Korenmarkt, Grote Markt, Goudenleeuwplein and picturesque Korenlei. We decided that we couldn't choose a favourite between Antwerp (see our Easter blog) and Ghent as both are very beautiful and quite unique. 

Kara with the Belfry

Sint Niklaaskerk

John's Church

Kara by the town hall

Just pull your boat up to the "water house at the beer side"!

Medieval houses against the Leie river Canal

One of our favourite buildings was the town hall, close to the Belfry tower. The Belfry (pictured above) is the tallest Belfry tower in Belgium and was completed in 1380.

What is unique about the tower, other than its height is its golden dragon which carefully watches out over the city, sitting high up in the tower. 

Graseli waterfront, Ghent

It's believed that the church offered the city's residents a safe haven during the Viking attacks. 

As the Sunday morning bells were ringing it wasn't hard to imagine they were calling out an impending attack! 

Also very picturesque was the Graseli a beautiful waterfront promenade, which when after the morning rain passed over was absolutely charming!  

After our mosey round we started back for home, ready for an early night to rest our tired legs!

Tot siens,

John and Kara