Hiking Mullerthal, Larochette to Consdorf, Luxembourgh

The commune of Larochette

On Saturday morning the sun rose while we still dozed in our snug hostel beds, it was the drilling beep of a phone alarm that woke us and ever so slowly we swung our legs over the edge of the bed checking what hurt the most. 

Calves? Uh-huh. Hips? Yip. Shoulders? Arrghhh. 

It was a slow start but we tried to move as quickly as our tired muscles would allow. Shoes on, teeth brushed. Breakfast was served at 8am and by 9am we had left the remote village of Bourglinster, found the Mullerthal trail markings and were tackling the first steady and slippery uphill east of Larochette village. 

Today's long hike in Luxembourg would see us trek a monstrous 35.5kms (we didn't know it then but we would end up walking much further than we anticipated). 

As soon as the morning's caffeine began to filter through our pumping veins we began to huff and weave our way up in a rhythmic motion. One foot, the other foot, one foot, the other foot. It was still cool enough that we could keep our sweaters on and staying under the forest-like canopy we were protected from the quickly heating sun.

Walking along the Mullerthal trail

Looking back over the commune of Larochette, which is situated along the white Ernz river, it feels like a village lost in a deep, rural forestland.  We could still see whiffs of the morning fog rising above the water below and the wooden thatched window-covers from the cottages remained closed. 

From our viewpoint up on the hill we could glance over at the spectacular Larochette castle ruins.

Located opposite us, surrounded by a partly destroyed wall and large moat, the old abandoned knight's castle cowered silently and alone above the small town, watching down as the people below began their morning.

Described as somewhat pompous, the earliest references to the castle are from the end of the 11th century and during the 12th century when the lords of Larochette were flag bearers for the counts of Luxembourg. The castle changed hands many times over the centuries as nobles families rose and fell, again and again, through battle, marriage or death. 

Sadly, the Larochette castle was destroyed by fire at the end of the 16th century and deserted. Withering on the exposed hilltop over hot summers and cold winters the old abandoned knights' castle slowly decayed. 

Starting the trail

Tick heaven

Coming across a lake early in the morning

We admired it nevertheless and after a breather we continued on walking through the rich green landscape before us. We walked around nine kilometres before we saw any other walkers. After leaving the beech forest, we walked around farmlands roaming through long grass (Kara was absolutely positively paranoid about ticks) and under eves of spring flowers (again a great place for ticks). We passed fields of cows happily munching on the new spring grass and walked exposing ourselves to the oncoming summer, under the clear blue sky.

The first leg of this morning's hike from Larochette to Beaufort was more or less 15 kilometres and Beaufort was where we intended to stop for an early lunch. When we eventually reached the township of Beaufort there had been a tractor-on-tractor collision and while John was busy checking it out, a small tick climbed on Kara's leg. Undeniably this was catastrophic and lead to us stopping every fifteen minutes for the next three hours to do a quick tick check. Lyme disease? No thank you! 

What was really amazing in Beaufort was the huge medieval castle. Located slightly down hill from where the Mullerthal trail approached the town, we initially couldn't see it as it hid between the trees. 

The Beaufort castle ruins

Following the Mullerthal trail

Entrance to the castle

However as we made our way down the main road it became visible! 

Glancing up at the ruins

It was probably again around the 11th century that the castle began as a small square-shaped fortress on a large rock protected by a moat. A reference from 1192 indicates that baron Wauthtier de Wiltz et Beaufort was its first lord. 

During the first half of the 12th century, a keep was added and the gate was moved and enlarged. From 1348 to 1781 the property changed hands regularly through marriage, confiscation and birth right (in fact many families owned both the Larochette and Beaufort castles at the same time). 

Each noble house (House of Orley, House of Orange etc) added and built on more additions to the castle.

Beaufort round tower

Our lunch spot

After various changes in ownership, the castle, like many across Europe, was abandoned, falling into disrepair. In 1893, the medieval castle was given a new lease, restored somewhat and opened to visitors.

Beaufort Renaissance Castle

Directly next door is also the Renaissance castle of Beaufort which dates from 1649.  It was built by a famous man from Luxembourg, Jean Baron de Beck. He was born in 1588, in Luxembourg-Grund, and had an exceptional military career. But what enticed us most about the Renaissance castle was the black current liquor which has been brewed there for many generations, unfortunately after walking all around trying to figure a way in we realised we couldn't and had to walk all the way back! We did however venture into the medieval castle for a poke around.

Trying a little blackcurrant liquor

John on the trail

After our short lunch stop by the river at the foot of the castle we had another 10 kilometres to get back to the village of Mullerthal (where we ate lunch yesterday) completing our circuit of trail three. From there we would jump back on trail two and take what was meant to be a short walk to our campground for the evening. 

Through the bush

Following the trail

Mossy little waterfalls

Black Ernz river weaving the forest floor

Walking out of Beaufort was some of the most beautiful scenery yet. We followed the black Ernz river and it was like some kind of magical enchanted fairyland. We went deeper and deeper into the bush almost in unchartered territory.
The landscape was so wild we wouldn't have been surprised to see a bunch of knights huddle over a small burning fire or a king's guard of practiced archers sneak out from behind the towering sandstone boulders, bows in hand ready to protect their lands. The stream raced over rocks, creating many small waterfalls and soft green moss grew along the bank edges. It was a long way to Mullerthal and when we finally arrived our shoulders ached from the weight of our packs and our foreheads were crusted with salt.

Selfie in the bush!

Remote fields

The final part of our hike for today, what we wrongly assumed was a mere 2-3 kilometres, turned out much, much further! But after almost walking in circles and seeing some amazing tunnels, caves and rock walls higher than the swaying pine trees, we eventually climbed a 200 metre hill to find our Consdorf camp ground. 

Kara wanting to take a photo on the ledge
but her leg is too tired to get up

Rock walls

The last few kilometres were definitely the toughest and every step had begun to hurt but worse was not knowing when the trail would join back to the road. Finally locating the campground was a huge relief, like jelly on a sore throat, and there certainly wouldn't be any further exploring tonight! 

For this, we would walk it all again

Mmm... yum

It had been a massive day and we were both dying for a hot shower. Dinner was early and we dined on delicious double beef burgers from the campground restaurant with a couple of well deserved bottles of beer. Tapping out.

Tot siens,

John and Kara