Perth update, Western Australia

Hanging out in the sand at Coogee Beach
with Mila and the family

The weather in Western Australia is hot, like really hot. It’s so hot and sticky that you sweat constantly, you sweat in the joints between your fingers, you sweat from the tip of your nose, you sweat when you sleep and you live almost permanently in damp clothes. It is so hot that your plastic jandals (flip flops) can and will melt instantly into the ground if you stand about. It’s so hot that cold showers aren’t cold and if you momentarily leave groceries in the car they half bake in minutes, so your better off just covering everything in salt at the supermarket so it ready to eat when you get home. It's hot, and it feels like it's getting hotter!

Perth is, the hottest place we have ever been too- its consistently hot and dry, in the morning, in the afternoon, even at night. There's just no reprieve and the fan in our room only seems to push the hot air around.

Brown Jelly fish in Swan River

But the hardy local people survive, flourish even. Life carries on; people still go out shopping, they go to the beach, they eat out at night and they take their kids to play group in the middle of the day. Western Australian’s are tough, blasé and proud to be different.

So when us 'foreigners' aren’t lying on the floor, the fan on full blast and sucking on glasses of ice, we try to get out and about exploring. 

Some nights are cool enough to sweat our way around the block at sunset, little niece Mila quite happily in tow. Usually we walk just to Munja park and the field behind the house which could very possibly have snakes! But we haven't seen any yet! 


One of our favorite walks is along the Swan river waterfront. There's always lots to see along the way, from people jogging to the massive hoards of unattractive brown and white jellyfish in the river. They just float by skimming the top of the water like crinkled paper bags. Black and white birds stand on the rotting wharf pillars with their wings outstretched drying in the warm evening air.

Calm blue waters, Congee beach

We've visited the beach for a dip with the family at John Graham recreation reserve in the Woodman point National Park several times but usually it's way to hot to stay long. The park is quite different from those in New Zealand with trees well away from the beach, leaving absolutely no shade!

On our last adventure, we all raced across the hot white sand and into the water. It was nice, clear and calm, not many people were swimming and we thought that was fantastic, more beach for us! It wasn't until we got out the stinging and itching started! All the splashing around and we had never even seen the little jellyfish, or as locals call them 'stingers'. 

Taking a walk, Congee beach

Huge Pelicans on the Wharf

Every Thursday, John has the opportunity to take a new (electric) work car home for an overnight test drive so we have made the most of those nights, driving round in the latest Toyotas, with a trip to the beach by Fremantle or we like to drive into the city centre. The small city centre always seems to be busy and is a mixing pot of ethnicities-which means plenty of new foods to try. 

An afternoon in Fremantle

Many people made Australia their home after World War Two and to this day have maintained many of their country traditions leaving us with a smorgasbord of sushi trains, Yugoslavian sausage shops and Italian pasta houses. 

Although the city is small compared to is eastern counterparts, home to over two million, there is a flourishing underground bar scene. The more simple exterior the better, often found down secluded lanes. 



One of our favourite nights in the city was at the Hawaiian themed tiki bar! We were there on Mai Tai night… and had an absolute ball!

Outdoor beer gardens

Giant Mai Tai night, Tiki Bar

Not a cloud in the sky, WACA grounds

Several Sundays ago, when it was a glorious blue sky day but a crazy 39 degrees we ventured out to a one day test series cricket match at the WACA Stadium grounds. It was a one time thing though, we won’t be doing that again. 

It was so hot and the uncovered stadium offered no shelter. By 2pm we were so uncomfortable that couldn't even breathe let alone watch the end of the game.

In addition to visiting local parks Kara has also been whipping up a storm in the kitchen, actively engaging in some baking- enthused by the kitchen factory shop down the road and an upcoming second birthday party. At Kmart she picked up a giant cupcake tin and that's been the basis of the last chocolate creations. The trouble is, the fondant melts before it reaches the cake because it's just to darn hot!

Rainbow cake! 

Cupcakes for a lovely man!

The big chocolate

So we ask that next time it rains or gets even a little cold, where ever you are, please wish some our way… the lawn sure needs a water!

Tot siens,

John and Kara

John Forrest National Park, Perth, Western Australia

John Forrest National Park in 10, 9, 8.... 

With the beautiful blue sky days of late, we decided to take a hiking trip this weekend to the difficult to find John Forrest National park. The conservation park is located 24kms east of Perth in the Darling Scarp range and was the first official national park in Western Australia.                                                                        

Kanagroos in the car park

National park falls

Originally named Greenmount Park the name was changed in 1900 to commemorate Western Australia's first premier.

So, early on Saturday morning we jumped in our blistered little maroon Holden and drove East towards the park. Winding through the dry landscape and scattered trees we arrived, parked up and were greeted by a mother Kangaroo and her little baby! 

Hi ho hi ho- where does the trail go?

It also smelt wonderful, gum trees and eucalyptus dominated the area and mixed with the natural rustic earthy smell of Australia.

Captivating rocky landscapre

Our intention was to hike the railway reserve heritage trail, a short 4-5km path that leads to an old tunnel.

The old swan view tunnel built in 1980 carried rail traffic through the region and park until 1966, until the line was closed. So off we went waving goodbye to the kangas.
Initially, it was a quiet day and not many others were around so we had the trail to ourselves. Well we thought we did but as we begun walking we could hear constant scampering in the bush at our feet.

Taking a short break

Kara became obsessed that there might be snakes and excitedly couldn't stop talking about them "John? How about here?
Can we lift up this dead log?" But we didn't find any, just plenty of little lizards.
As the muddy path thickened and we walked beside an old dam, suddenly a gorgeous kookaburra flew down and sung to us.

Our first encounter at such close range, we were surprised that it's such a small bird, cause gosh they can sing loud!

Kookaburra sits in the old gum tree! 

The trail then half looped around several small hills and we eventually came out by a massive rock area. The stunning National Park falls!


Except with the hot dry temperatures there was no water, no fall, no waterfall!! But no doubt with the massive rocks it could be very beautiful and impressive in winter! We climbed over them for a short time peering down into the puddles below.

Looking for the tunnel

Look (no snakes)

The day was really heating up now, we could see the railway tunnel and thought it would be a perfect place to eat our picnic lunch. Nothing fancy just a ham and cheese salad sandwich and muesli bar each. The long tunnel was cool and damp, an excellent location to take a rest, with views down over the swan valley and further across to Perth. As we sat and watched the massive brown ants nibble our crumbs several cycling groups came whizzing down the dark tunnel and a family who looked like they had struggled coming up the opposite hill!

Rusty dusty roads

Returning, we were amazed at the brilliant redness of the ground, as if the ground had bleed and wept when they cut the trail into the dry hillside.

The rusty dust bellowed up with each step covering our clean shoes and making its way into the crevices where our socks met with our ankles.

We also saw strange crispy black plants as if they had been scorched, burnt and toasted, we weren't sure what they were or how why they looked like they had been on fire and they were regular along the path.

As we returned we passed via the dam which blocks the Jane brook, built by relief workers during the 1930 Great Depression. In the small recreation area were shelters, bbq's and a small information board.

Jane Brook Dam

According to aboriginal history the area had once been inhabited by Nyoongar people and the Jane brook was an ancient travel route used to cross over the Darling Scarp. It is believed that the black rocks surrounding and in the brook are mythical droppings of a mythical dream-time serpent.

Glen brook dam

We returned back to the car but decided to walk back via the 'scenic' route in the opposite direction down to the Glen brook dam (another dam).

The path was much thicker, but still no snakes. The dam was beautiful, it didn't look too deep and the water was an amazing green blue colour- how we wished we could take a dip! But the calm water was a bit stagnant and we didn't want to take any risks so we dipped our hot swollen feet instead

Tot siens,
John and Kara

Perth, Western Australia

Merry Christmas from Melbourne

Happy New Year!! 

We hope that where ever you are or where ever you have been that you had a fabulous adventure, we are sure this will be an exciting year!

So where are we now? After spending a happy Christmas period and an amazing birthday celebration with family in Melbourne we flew on to Perth, in remote Western Australia. 

Birthday yum-cha! 

Right from exiting our cramped tiger air flight at the international airport the heat has suppressed us! Adelaide was warm, but Perth is so much drier and it just seems so much hotter. The weather is unbelievably warm… and in the last two weeks it's felt like what a real summer should be! 

The problem with the summer weather, which we had never even considered is that most days we’re forced to remain indoors for the heat is so intense. Early in the mornings, after breakfast under the patio, Mila and Kara will take a dip in her paddling pool but then it's inside time as the ferocious sun bares down! 

An evening on Cottosloe Beacg

However, I guess in every situation there's an upside.... its so hot that there aren't the onslaught of flies like in South Australia! 

So over the last couple of weeks we have been inside relaxing on Ilija and Judiet's couch, eating healthy out on the patio and getting in plenty of evening exercise! We prefer walking as the neighbourhood is very flat! We are very fortunate to have bunked up with some friendly locals, who are just as excited as us to explore Perth! 

Admiring the city view from Kings Park, Central Perth

Last weekend we all jumped in the car taking off to Cottosloe city beach for a swim and ice cream, and the following day to Kings Park. Kings Park a national park on the west side of Perth business district and is spread over Mount Eliza. It was opened in 1895 and later in 1901 renamed as dedication to the King Edward VII ascending the throne. It's unique is the fact that it's one of the biggest inner city parks in the world but also it's perhaps the only hill in Perth. From the park edge there is a fantastic panoramic view out over the city, Swan river and as far as the Darling ranges. Although it was hot, we can already appreciate the well

maintained green grass that runs down over hills! 

First day of work- what a handsome man! 

We also have been spirited off on a half day tour of Perth's IKEA- our first experience at this gigantic, buy everything you want and more that you don't need, superstore but certainly not our last visit! Being privy to all the small day to day things are quite exciting, like how all the supermarkets seem to be self-check out and people just tap and pay everywhere! 

John was super fortunate to have nailed down a new job within days of our arrival and started last week. With everything going well hopefully Kara will have some work soon too (the interviews haven’t been successful just yet…). In order to move around and get John to work, we also have brought a new little maroon car! The whole buying process was a little stressful and in hindsight we probably didn't get the best bang for our buck. 

Our snazy new holden :) 

With our plans to settle in Perth for several months we will continue to blog about our adventures in this vast western wildness!

Please keep in touch, we love hearing from you!

Tot siens,

John and Kara

McLaren Vale, South Australia update

The neighbours farm, McLaren Vale 

Is it Christmas time already? Where has the time gone? 

The last several weeks have disappeared in to the dust and we are still happily on a garlic farm in South Australia!

Taking a dip at Maslin beach (not the nude end)

We're having an absolute ball in the McLaren Vale. In all honesty, cleaning garlic isn’t exactly challenging, perhaps a little tedious but boy oh boy, motivating ourselves isn't difficult with the promise of a spicy full-bodied red or two, or three, waiting at an unexplored cellar down the road.

Baking german Christmas cookies to share!

In the mornings our responsibility is to sit in the old farm barn on dusty plastic chairs and clean the garlic. Toothbrush in hand we swipe away the dirt and work until the dust covers our clothes and layers up our fore arms. 

Last week though for a change we spent a morning planting just over thirty new trees around the property, digging large holes and filling them up again then making up trays of tiny seedlings, the garden is booming! 

On Saturday's we join Colin at the Willunga farmers market as he sells the garlic to local buyers, so there is certainly a lot to do!

Feeding local Kangaroos

Our day typically finishes up for lunch more or less around 1pm and then we have the afternoons to ourselves. We've had some lazy afternoons watching game of thrones on the computer, baking German cookies and just hanging out with all the farm animals. 

One of our daily tasks has been to feed the Alpacas, sadly one passed away and worse the house chicken got eaten by a fox, so we're keeping a close eye on everyone else! 

A lot of what we decide to do is weather dependant, when it's a little cooler we have more energy to go out. We like to go out as much as we can after a morning in the barn, sometimes just for a walk down the road for some drop bear spotting and kangaroo hunting! Initially we had some trouble spotting anything, secretly camouflaged by the gum trees, but now we see Koalas everywhere along the road. Its fascinating to see how little they move each day, either just across the road or to the neighboring tree, the kangaroos, well they are far more elusive.

Welcome to Adelaide 

Maslin Beach

If we aren't visiting a wine cellar, (click here to link to our wine route blog) we like to spend a few hours swimming or exploring at the beach. 

Down the road, travelling East is the coastal township of Port Willunga. Willunga beach had its five minutes of fame when sadly in 1888, a sailing ship ran aground during a fierce storm. 

It became one of South Australia’s worst maritime disasters. 



Now a popular diving attraction, bits of the old ship are visible poking out of the water, but we like to just waddle in the blue water. Across from the bay is then Maslin beach with its beautiful golden sand. At low tide the remnants of the old jetty built in 1915 can often be seen jutting out of the ocean and along the sandstone cliff are small caves that were once built to store ropes and nets. Here we prefer to swim as the blue water is crystal clear and warm!

Noorlunga Beach, Noorlunga, SA

Noorlunga Beach, Noorlunga, SA

Maslin beach

We are really enjoying ourselves immensely on the farm, from hearing kookaburra in the tall pines laughing with each other early in the morning to the stunningly clear star filled nights! The weather is hot, but bearable. Last week we had some rain come through which lasted a day, the first rain since we arrived… it reminded us a little of a grey Auckland day except it stopped and it was quickly back to 30 degrees again! The smell of the gum trees and the warm dry dust after the wet assault was absolutely sensational.

Hanging out in the beach caves

So other than jaunting around the barren countryside visiting wildlife parks and wineries we will be shortly putting down our toothbrushes returning to Melbourne, Victoria for Christmas.

We would like to take the time to wish all our family and dear friends a safe and happy Christmas! We hope that the new year will bring you adventure, challenge and more motivation to follow your dreams. Keep in touch and we will be blogging early in the new year!

And for some final well meaning thoughts we would like you to share with you the following advice we've picked up this month...... In wine there's wisdom, in beer there's strength, in water there's bacteria! People sensible people, drink wine!

Merry Christmas!!!

Tot siens,

John and Kara

Garlic Harvesting, South Australia

Garlic harvesting at the
Clear Hills Biodynamic Garlic farm

Just a quick update from deep in the dusty trenches of an Australian biodynamic garlic farm! 

We are currently WWOOF’ing on a garlic farm in the McLaren Vale, Adelaide. Having seen an advertisement for casual workers in exchange for food and lodging we made contact, caught the train out of the city and here we are! 

Back of the farm

Another farm lake

Garlic harvesting tractor

The McLaren Vale is an hour south of Adelaide. Our main role has been to essentially harvest garlic, which is a dirty, dirty job but awesome fun! 

Colin, the farmer chugs his rusting red tractor over the field pulling the garlic up, we walk behind, shaking clumps of dirt to bring out the large white knobs of garlic and forming them into bundles. Then with blue twine we quickly tie them together and move on and Bob's your uncle! 



The field is so unbelievably dry and dusty and when we finish up every morning are coated in a layer of orange brown. It sticks to our skin, under our nails, clumps our hair and is in every nook and cranny. 

Piles of our garlic

Tooth brush and scissors- garlic cleaning
can be a little boring.....

As we bend forward collecting the garlic, we can feel the burning sun on our backs, oh its hot! On Wednesday we weren't surprised to see the temperature gauge hit a high of 41 degrees!! This week though it’s a cool 22/23 degrees and the fresh morning air invigorates the spirit. You never really know if you're in for a hot day or something more bearable, so we've tried to get on the field early and finish early.

Looking down across the farm

What we like is that life on the garlic farm is far from boring. We are boarding with a young German couple who are backpacking through Australia, a border collie puppy, an indoor chicken that thinks it's a cat, about 1000 millipedes and a wild fox that visits at night. 

Beautiful farm dog puppy!

Our ramshackle shed-house has minimal electricity, only cold running water and there's no toilet so it's a bit like camping. Surrounding the main neighbouring farmhouse is a large organic garden that we help water every day, and early each morning we make a mad dash across to use the outhouse. 

Yes, they still have an outhouse! 

The old wooden farm house, is over one hundred years old and was first built as a school at the turn of the century. 

Down across the padlock is a large murky dam, two happy alpacas and coming back round towards the road a hen house with twenty laying chooks. Outside the property, there are dozens of wild kangaroos roaming the farmlands and koalas hanging out in trees.

Friendly pet alpaca 

Spot the Koala

Rubbish around the farm

Firewood ready to chop!

It took us six days, working six hours a morning, one hour in the garden watering the plants and five on the field to finish the harvest. We finished several days ago and have now begun undertaking the garlic ‘clean’ which comprises of sitting in a large corrugated barn scraping off all the aforementioned dry and dusty dirt. During this time of contemplation we are considering our next move. We have applied for and are waiting to hear back on several job applications (Including some orange picking at the Murray river or station hand work in Alice springs). Fingers crossed! 

In the little red beast (which we only had to push start twice),
on the way into Hardy's!

With our afternoons, we borrow the little worn out communal farm car and head out exploring. The car is not exactly a go getter and needs a forceful push to get going, but makes the distance.

On Saturday morning the four of us squished in and drove into town. First we stopped at the visitor information centre and learnt there are 82 cellars in the immediate region of which around 50 have cellar doors open to the public.

Maslin Beach, Noorlunga, SA

Equipped with a wine map we enthusiastically set off! 

The McLaren vale region, close to the sea and with dry arid temperatures, is renowned for its Shiraz and old style wine. Also in abundance growing in farms along the road are olives and a summer favourite gorgeous little red strawberries!! 

Toasting Marshmallows at night

Unfortunately, after a hearty effort we only managed to visit seven wineries and a small brewery on day one, wiped out we returned to the farm. 

We would love to visit all the vineyards, we're sure it can be done, but it's a big commitment. Perhaps we just need to start off earlier, or do a few every day. 

This afternoon, we're off to visit the beach before we head back to the methodical and serious business of garlic cleaning tomorrow. 

Tot siens 

John and Kara