Milford Sound, South Island, NZ

Milford Sound adventure

We woke this morning in our warm comfortable hotel bed as the sun begun to shine through the curtains covering the window. The white sheets wrapped luxuriously around our legs and the solid mattress beneath giving our backs the support they hadn't had for weeks. It was tough to consider leaving the warm little un-van-like room but after scrubbing another layer of unnecessary skin off under the high pressured hot shower we needed to eat and find our bus. 

Lord of the Rings filming set

Although we had considered driving to the Milford Sound we thought the risk was too high. The road is notoriously common for accidents, avalanches and closures and we didn't have time to be stranded. 

Just last week a large avalanche had closed the road for days and caused sadly, several deaths. So the afternoon prior we purchased a package 'bus and encounter boat cruise' through the Milford Sound fiord, which is based within Fiordland National Park, Puopiotahi Marine Reserve and is a Te Wahipounamu World Heritage site.

Snow capped mountains 

It was a cool morning when we boarded the packed bus but after such a warm evening the night before we dressed in layers, hoping to catch another small glimpse that summer is on its way. We also packed our raincoats as Milford Sound is known to be the wettest inhabited place in New Zealand and one of the wettest in the world! 

Lucky enough to have some commentary, the bus driver pointed out different scenic spots, including where they had just finished filming a  part of the third trilogy in lord of the rings. They explained the legend of Milford Sound which in Maori is rather named Piopiotahi after one single piopio bird. 

Tasting the clear water

Mountain views

Rocky ravines

Sheer cliff faces

The story goes that a long long time ago Maui, who had once fished up NZ with his brothers, went in search of immortality for mankind. He went with the company of a piopio but unfortunately was, well as we are well aware of today, seemingly unsuccessful. 

Mirror lake

The piopio who travelled with him was said to have flown to Milford Sound in mourning after Maui's death, giving the fiord it's name. 

However it's also rumoured that Piopiotahi was carved out by the great axe wheeling Tu-te-raki-whanoa, Milford sound his masterpiece. It was a beautiful day, the sky was a brilliant blue and the drive was just amazing, absolutely stunning. The bus made a stop at a beautiful reserve called Mirror Lakes which held a reflection so vivid it was almost unreal.

Water so calm its hard to tell if its real

Coming towards the end of the 3.5 hour drive, we passed through the long, dark one-way Homer Tunnel and zig zagged steeply into Milford Sound. 

We had been awed for hours by the spectacular views, glorious snow covered mountains, frozen glaciers and alpine forests but yet everyone on the bus held their breaths and collectively sighed contently as the gorgeous emerald water came into view. 

It could have been the end of earth, the wild wildness and remote rugged landscape, the mountains that rose from the depths of the fiord water were lightly sprinkled in snow and behind a backdrop so blue it couldn't really have been real. Oh but it was!!!

Green gullies

Low hanging clouds

Waterfalls from the bus

White water streams

Having arrived a little early we wandered through the main asphalt carpark and sat down by a small inlet to eat our packed lunch. As we ate, swatting away sandflies we watched large birds carefully walking around between the parked cars in search of scraps (later we found out they are called Weka birds).

Hanging out waiting for the boat

Not long after we excitedly lined up for it, it was time to board our huge double story boat. Wiggling into the main cabin as those around is pushed and shoved through the little door, we grabbed a cup of hot sweet tea, a couple of biscuits and sat outside on red benches attached to the large deck, waiting to set off. 

Climbing aboard! 

View from the docked boat

Hugging the southern side of the sound the boat quietly motored off. It's was absolutely spectacular! 

Milford sound

Sheer rock faces rose from the sea almost 1,200 meters high, covered in green moulds and littered in small waterfalls that fell over the rock faces like silver ribbons. Trees grew over the cliffs blanketing and smothering the hills. The water was dark emerald in colour, imitating a thickness it wasn't, alluding to its deepness.

Beautiful mountains and seas

"Welcome aboard everyone, today we'll be heading towards the base of Mitre Peak and looping around to our left before we hit the Tasman Sea, keep an eye on the water folks we saw a pack of dolphins just shy of an hour ago" the boat's speaker crackled first in English and then again in Japanese or Chinese. 

Dolphins! How awesome, everything kept on getting better and like bunnies we hopped across the wooden main deck looking out for those elusive packs of roaming wildlife.

The boat merrily motored through the sound charging along against a snappy headwind. It was quite cold, the bright sun offered no heat and the icy wind numbed our noses and reddened our cheeks but we sat back and soaked in the glorious view. 

Seals happily sunbathing

How lucky we are to live in such a beautiful country. Nearing the sharp rocky coastline we saw huge brown seals basking in the afternoon sun. 

It certainly wasn't a warm day and we were grateful for our jackets but with their thick fur coats they didn't have a care in the world, laying about on the flat rocks, sleeping and probably digesting their last meal. 

Approaching Stifling falls

We hung onto the cool steel railing throwing caution to the wind to get a closer look. The winter wind whipped at our jackets finding its way towards any exposed skin.

The boat eventually made its turn under the highest peak in the sound, Mitre Peak. Chugging slowly underneath, the immense size of the mountain hid us from the sun and cast long shadows over the water. 

The opening to the Tasman Sea lay to our right, wide and welcoming, shimmering in the sunlight. 

Enjoying the view

Passing by a waterfall

On our return with our backs to the snow-covered Mitre Peak we made a pass close to the cliff face. Seated on the main deck we quickly snapped as many photos as we could of the beautiful Stifling Falls, a magnificent cascading waterfall. The boat edged closer and closer and closer still until suddenly we were underneath and the water fell on board. 

By the waterfalls

Stifling falls

The water gushed over the railings and spread masses of bubbly white water over the varnished wood. Several Asian tourists perhaps now regretting their over-eagerness, stood angrily jabbering, their clothes drenched in icy water the cameras around their necks probably now deemed useless.

Seals resting on the rocks

The man who had been serving afternoon tea offered us a small clear plastic cup, like something you would use at the dentist to wash your mouth out.

 If we dared get closer the water was, as he said 'delicious'. Not really game enough to try, we feared we would end up like the poor wet folk still wringing themselves out on the other side of the deck. 

On the bus back to Te Anau

We were having such a great time it was disappointing that we had to return to Te Anau. We took one last cup of sweet tea and drunk it sitting on the cushioned chairs inside looking back at the picturesque mountains.

Tot siens,

John and Kara