Carlow, Ireland

Carlow, the rural county

It was a bit nippy this morning, a fresh 4 degrees with a real feel of -2degrees. A little harder to get out of the warm bed but fortunately the sun shone against the winter drapes and without having somewhere to be we took our time getting up!

Fast forward a couple of hours and we were somewhere! Somewhere in Northern County Carlow, South East Ireland. 

Traipsing across a wet, muddy, green field, alone, as an icy and gusty wind whipped at our exposed flesh we, like archeologists, sought out a pre-historic stone monument. 

Brownshill Dolmen

Side view of the Dolmen

Our sleep-in forgotten with the joy of climbing under the trees which with the latest storm had fallen over the path, squishing through the mud and the constant fear of being hit by a car racing down the narrow footpath-less country roads we side saddled. Several kilometers into our adventure we eventually found the unmistakable Brownshill Dolmen monument. 

The Dolmen, is a pre-historic capstone which it is believed to have been made by ancient Irish farmers for religious reasons. Used for over four and half thousand years as possibly a human sacrificial location, the monument is meant to be the gateway to a deep underground burial chamber, which is yet to be excavated. Having recently read the Scottish based novel 'Outlanders' how exciting would it be if we fell into a time portal? 

There we were, alone and with the wind burning our cheeks red and numbing our noses while climbing over the deserted field looking for our entry into a different century. Aye, the elements weren't right to talk with our Neolithic ancestors today so mildly disappointed that our attempt at time travel failed we admired the 100 ton rocks and then set of towards the township of Carlow. 

Looking for a time portal

Walking the country roads

Five kilometers down the road, the little town of Carlow (capital of County Carlow) pre-dates written Irish history. It played a major role in Ireland, serving as Ireland's capital back in the 14th century. As we walked the flat road we stopped to take photos at the beautiful manors and houses which were neatly lined up along the road.

Carlow County Manor

Walking Tullow Street

English type houses along the road

Carlow Castle

Coming into the little town the streets were full with people scattering about finishing their last minute Christmas shopping. We walked on through the little center.

Past streets with unusual names, like Potato Market, towards the large Carlow Castle. Located next to the long windy River Barrow that cuts through the town, the Castle was believed to have been built to guard the river. 

Although no evidence exists, it's assumed that the large stone castle was built around 1201-1213 by Englishman, William Marshal the elder. When we arrived we were surprised to see that nothing really remained bar a west facing wall. In 1814 the castle was widely destroyed by explosives in an over eager attempt to create more space for a lunatic asylum. In fact, by the middle of the 14th century there were a recorded 150 castles in Carlow- all of which have since been destroyed.

Behind the west wall

Windows in the tower

Graiguecullen Bridge over the River Burrow

Swans in the Town Park

So we had a short walk around the remaining wall and then over to the Graiguecullen Bridge which dates back to 1569 and crosses the River Burrow.

It was quite chilly for 2pm and the wind raced over the water finding the littles gaps in our gloves.

After walking across the bridge and down the riverside path we stopped for a small lunch along the river and watched the huge white swans lazing about as if they didn't feel the sub zero temperatures. We did however.

A Christmas tree at the mall

Liberty Tree sculpture

So to warm up we made our way through the city park to the little Carlow mall, on the way stopping quickly at the infamous Liberty Tree sculpture which was designed to commemorate the 1798 Irish rebellion where sadly over 600 soldiers unsuccessfully attacked the English town. 

Christmas lights in the town

After looking around the closing mall we grabbed a coffee and went out again looking at the Christmas lights out on the street. Carlow has the quaint small town feel we've come to find across Ireland. The shops have well decorated front facades with large glass windows all orderly lined up in parallel with the road.

It was a beautiful time to be out, the streets quiet and clear, everyone already tucked up inside their warm houses getting ready for Christmas. Carlow was a small town and it was nice to explore the ancient settlement.

Tot siens,

John and Kara