Medieval Mile, Kilkenny, Ireland

Kilkenny Castle ground, Kilkenny

We gathered our gloves, wrapped our scarfs tighter and pulled our woolly hats down over our heads. It was time to brave the cold again and leaving the cozy bar was going to come at a price. We had just finished an amazing tour: the Smithwicks brewery experience, and although our bellies were warmed by the golden draught it was still mighty cold outside.

We had ventured out early this frosty morning set on visiting the Kilkenny medieval mile; a compact route which links Kilkenny castle with Saint Canice's Church through the centre of the little city. Starting off strong we made our first stop at the large stone symbol of Normanism, the noble and opulent Kilkenny Castle. 

Butler gallery, Kilkenny Castle

Main gate, the parade

From the inner courtyard

Corner tower

Built in 1195 by William Marshall, 1st Earl of Pembrooke the castle has seen its fair share of sieges, conquerings, reconquerings and war. Oh if walls could talk.

Castle library 

Dining hall for guests

Informal sitting room 

Art gallery 

Kilkenny Castle gardens

We wandered around the gardens stomping on the frozen grass enjoying the little sunshine which peeped between the clouds. But as the morning would have it we quickly got slightly side tracked at the Smithwicks brewery.

Smithwicks brewery

Enter the brewery experience

Into the brew house

Our Kilkenny guidebook which we picked up at the tourist information centre read that when the Smithwick family moved to Kilkenny in the early 1700's they went enthusiastically into the brewery business. 

The trouble was that at the time Ireland had strict penal laws which meant no Catholic could own property or conduct business. This didn't stop them though and they stealthily kept private and began brewing. The brewery grew in size and output and today (nine generations later) the business is a thriving international success. We had tried a local Kilkenny down at The Dylan pub last week and we were easily sold on the idea of the Smithwicks experience. 

Real Craft is Born of Necessity

It was close to midday when we arrived and there were no other punters to be seen so our little tour of four set off with a guide into the sweet-smelling brewery.

Churning the grains

To say the least we were pleasantly surprised at the professionalism and high quality of the tour (and they're not paying us to say that!) it was fantastic! 

The tour was broken into three parts; the first: Real Craft is Born of Necessity where holographic monks (the brewery was built next to St Francis Abbey where in the 13th century monks also used a brewery type process) explained how water was filtered and cleaned during the medieval times. 

Warming of the barley

Awesome holographics

Relaxing over a Kilkenny

Then the second theme was: Forged in Adversity. There were talking pictures of the Smithwicks (pronounced smid'icks) family members explaining how they survived through many a hard time of Ireland's history and while we watched we sat in bathtubs.

Each area also had a unique smell and the guide was sure to point them out, explaining what it was. 

We got to try our hands on some of the old machinery, feel the heat of the fermenting grains, taste the unfiltered beer and then finally the third part of the tour: 

Perfected Over Generations, where we sat in the bar and shared a Kilkenny! 

St Canice Catholic Church

St Mary's Church

St Mary's Church

So back out in the cold winter's day after wrapping up warm we walked down towards St Canice's Church sharing a bag of Guinness fudge. The road winded slowly down the main street and we passed several other smaller churches.

Saint Canice's Church

Also sometimes called the Kilkenny Cathedral, St Canice's church dates back to the 13th century but was built on the sight of a much older church dating as far back as the 6th century. 

St Canice's church was originally named after the legendary saint 'Canice or Kenny' who lived from 525 to 599AD. It was such an important part of the ancient town that when Kilkenny became the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Ossory it received its name Cill Cainnigh which means 'Church of Canice'. 

Climbing the round tower

With a long and complicated history the church and its grand cathedral now sits quietly above the city on ancient Celtic sacred land.

Its bells chime out softly on a Sunday morning and the graveyard surrounding its perimeter is quiet and still. One of the unique aspects of the Church is its 9th century 100ft high Celtic Christian round tower which is open to the public! 

Steep and steady

That was our next stop and along with a young group of Chinese tourists we ascended the steep set of internal ladders. The round tower or Cloigtheach (that's a mouthful right?) which means bell tower wasn't easy to climb. Not for the weak or faint hearted or perhaps in hindsight those under the influence we had to grip onto the cold wonky wood for dear life.

Reaching the top of one of the only two round towers open in Ireland was breathtaking. The icy wind literally pushed us hard against the edge of the stone ledge. With the early setting sun glaring in our eyes we took a few photos of the grey city beneath and the approaching rain before quickly beginning our slow and wobbly climb.

View over Kilkenny

View to the South (here comes that rain again)

On top of the round tower, Kilkenny

Medieval Mile, Kilkenny

As we walked home down the chilly streets in Kilkenny looking into the warm low-lit windows of the corner pubs we were reminded how similar Ireland is to New Zealand.

As we turned and passed the small alleys we heard the voices of children singing English carols and their parents across the way carefully watching and gossiping about work. 

It made us homesick for our families. As we returned walking down the black marbled streets we took a moment to reflect on this last year. It has certainly been one full of adventure and a roller coaster of fun, sometimes up, sometimes down. For now, to close this year, we wish our family and friends a wonderful Christmas, full of love, happiness and cheer. MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone.

Oh how we miss you all!

Tot siens,

John and Kara