Antwerp, Belgium

The giant hand slaying hero

It's easter again and this weekend we got in the car and drove south into Belgium! With some slight trepidation after recent terrorist attacks we forewent our purchased bus tickets and opted for the car (in case we needed to make a quick get away). 

However there was nothing to be concerned about and the whole weekend was amazing! Having the car though meant we were much more flexible and so we were able to explore the northern city of Antwerp on our way to and from Bruges. 

According to old folk tales the city of Antwerp got its name from a legend about a fierce giant called Antigoon who lived near the city's river. He exacted a toll from passing boatmen, and for those who refused, he kindly severed one of their hands and threw it into the river. Eventually the giant was killed by a young hero who is idolised in statue form in the city’s main centre. 

The hero cut off the giant's own hand and flung it into the river! Karma right? So the name Antwerpen comes from Dutch ‘hand werpen’, akin to Old English hand and wearpan (to throw), which has evolved to today's warp. So the city’s name literally  translates to hand thrower! 

However, before the hand-throwing giant, historical Antwerp allegedly had Roman roots. Excavations carried out in the oldest section near the river, indicate the area was populated mid-2nd century to the end of the 3rd century.

Heading into the old town

Walking through Antwerp

As we arrived into Antwerp it was cold, cloudy and gusty. We drove around looking for somewhere to park. Initially we weren't impressed by what we saw, it was grey and everything looked ‘square’ and we even thought about just driving on through. Eventually we found a parking spot by the old wharf along the city river (the river Scheldt) and walked towards the old centre.

Easter parades under the town hall

We walked into the old town, down the Vlasmarkt and we heard whiffs of music caught in the gusting wind. A marching band was playing under the towering city hall and their music created an amazing atmosphere as we realised how beautiful Antwerp really was! 

We did feel a little nervous and exposed in the square but the beauty of the buildings and the easter show had us relaxing. 

We grabbed a seat and watched the traditionally dressed folk dancing and singing for a few minutes. 

Amazing 16th century guild houses

Antwerp really came into its own during the 15th and 16th centuries. At the time the Spanish ruled over the area which was then considered Hasburg Netherlands as the Spanish King was part of the Hasburg Empire. 

The then Dutch-speaking city (it wasn't part of Belgium until 1832 after the Siege of Antwerp) grew greatly in importance and at the end of the 15th century when trading in nearby Bruges began to decline Antwerp began to flourish. 

Antwerp was the richest city in Europe in the 15th century as trading boomed and during the first half of the 16th century Antwerp grew to become the second-largest European city north of the Alps. 

Blauwmoezelstraat

Carolus Borromeuskerk

Relaxing with a coffee on the main square

Erfgoedbibliotheek (public library)

Plaza in the centre of the old town

Many foreign merchants traded and stayed in the city selling their wares and making fortunes. Hundreds of ships would pass through the ports in a day, and 2000 carts entered the city each week. At the beginning of the 16th century Antwerp accounted for 40% of world trade. The city continued to prosper until the Dutch revolution. 

Panoramic of Grote Markt

Looking up at the Cathedral of our Lady

As we sat looking at the Renaissance-style Stadhuis (the city hall) and listening to the band play, we admired the Grote Markt (Great Market Square) and the stunning medieval Dutch houses called the guildhalls which surrounded it. 

The square, built between 1561 and 1565, incorporates both Flemish and Italian influences (so, everything looked beautiful). The amazing buildings are all protected UNESCO world heritage sights. The square itself is laced with dark cobbles and towering above watching everything was the Cathedral of our Lady. 

Old well in the church square

Walking up Oude Koornmarkt

Local cookies in the shape of hands

We walked around the quiet almost deserted old town wondering where all the people were. We looked into the windows of dimly lit bakeries and admired a lot of their chocolatey treats! One unusual biscuit we saw is the local Antwerpse Handjes, literally "Antwerp Hands". Made from a short pastry with almonds or milk chocolate, they symbolise the Antwerp trademark and folklore. Quite delicious, like a mildly spiced shortbread.

Exploring quiet streets

The windy kaasstraat

Down the dark alleys we walked until we reached the Cathedral of our Lady, a Roman Catholic cathedral. Started in 1352 and, although the first stage of construction was ended in 1521, it has never been completed. In Gothic style, similar to many across Spain, the Cathedral loomed over the square below.

Cathedral of our Lady

Buildings along Ernest van Dijckkaai

Local cafe's selling waffles

South side of Grote Markt

The wind really picked up and so we moved along looking for somewhere to grab lunch. On our way back as the sky cleared slightly we made our way back to the river. 

The medieval Het Steen fortress

Although Antwerp was a fortified city many many moons ago, hardly anything remains except a replica of a medieval fortress named Het Steen which has been partly rebuilt near the river. 

We raced over and explored the small stone castle which was originally built after the Viking incursions in the early middle ages. From 1303 to 1827 it was used as a prison and quite fittingly two large menacing giants guard at the entrance!

After exploring Antwerp we were back in the car and on our way to Bruges!

Tot siens,

John and Kara