Monday, 28 March 2016

Bruges, West Flanders, Belgium

Welcome to the City of Bruges
Entering Medieval Bruges





















Our Easter weekend was already well underway and after exploring historical Antwerp we were now driving to the capital of West Flanders in Belgium, to the famous medieval city of Bruges.

Looking across the Dijver canal

Bruges, dates back to the Bronze and Iron Ages when it was once a coastal prehistoric settlement. 

The first fortifications were built after the Roman conquest of the local tribes' people in the first century BC.

This sounded very interesting! As we drove across the flat green lands of Belgium, Kara read out more history. 

The German Franks then took over from the Romans around the 4th century. After some serious viking plundering in the ninth century the Roman fortifications were reinforced and Bruges began trading with England and Scandinavia. 

Bruges City Hall
It took about two hours to reach Bruges, find a parking spot and check in at our hostel. It was mid afternoon and we were rearing to head out and explore. It was, in essence, the beginning of a glutinous three day chocolate, beer, waffle and frites binge! 

But we probably walked most of it off, starting at the Burg square. 

The beautiful square plaza was covered in sprawling tourists and flanked by gorgeous buildings like the city hall, which was built in 1421. 

People milled about amongst the sickly smell of sugar-crusted waffles and the afternoon sun sparkled; piercing through the clouds and glaring off the golden buildings. We moved on and before long were engaged in a flight of local beer tasting- cherry, coconut and other unusual flavours crossed our palates.
Beer with a view
Tasting tray number one



















Walking down quiet lanes into pubs
Favourite beer of the weekend





















The rest of the evening disappeared (quite literally as daylight savings started) and we wandered aimlessly around the old enchanting houses and dark canals. 


Canal views
John on Meestraat Bridge



















Old court house

Interestingly, due to its coastal location, Bruges once became a successful trading post. Bruges received its city charter in July 1128, and new walls and city canals were built. 

The city grew quickly as the demand for trading increased but starting around 1500, the channel, which had given the city its prosperity, also started silting and what had been Bruges' Golden Era had ended (the interesting part is that now Bruges is 14km from the sea). 

Panoramic of the back of the Stadhuis, against Brug square

During the 17th century, various unsuccessful efforts to bring back the glorious past were made. The beautiful city of Bruges became impoverished and gradually faded in importance; its population dwindling from 200,000 to 50,000 by 1900.


Early morning photo of the City Hall


However In the last half of the 19th century, Bruges became one of the world's first tourist destinations attracting wealthy British and French tourists who came to explore (much like us) the original medieval city.

Windmill one
Windmill two
Windmill three
The next morning was grizzly and cold. Rain threatened to spoil our day but after a meat and cheese breakfast we set off marching to the city's border on the outskirts of Kruisvest. 
























Windmill four





















Following an almost deserted trail we conquered the windmill loop looking up in awe at the old mills which date back to 1770. What we enjoyed at the end of the trail was stumbling on the Béguinage, which is a cluster of white nunneries that surround a magical garden of spring daffodils. What we loved about Bruges is that for every corner you turn there's something notable, something to make you go wow! 

Nun cluster in the Beguinage

Beautiful medieval houses tucked away
Walking down Steenstraat


















Sunset on the wooden houses
View from a beer garden :) 


















Begijnhof bridge
Making time for waffles
Interesting shapes and patterns

Back of the Belfry
Looking at the Onze-lieve-Vrouw Brugge

Pit stop at the Grote Markt
The most impressive part of Bruges would have to be the Grote Markt with the cascading 13th century belfry (perhaps made famous by the movie In Bruges with Colin Farrell) and the surrounding ginger bread houses. 

The belfry
Simon Stevinplein square




















We ended up visiting the square several times over the long weekend, at times just passing through to get from one bar to another or to buy some hot frites or racing from chocolate shop to chocolate shop!

Easter delights in the windows!
Belgium's association with chocolate goes back as far as 1635 when the country was under Spanish rule and the Spanish were making large trades of cocoa beans from South America. From the early 20th century, the country was able to import large quantities of cocoa from its African colony. Over time of course they perfected their recipes and alas we gorged! 

Easter treats
Ohh.... a collection!! 


















Something a little fancy...

Rabbits and eggs! 





















We spent the evening quietly walking the streets again absorbing the low light and peaceful feeling that comes when the bus loads of tourists leave for the day. The moon almost bounced off the water and it lapped so quietly against the century's old canals.

Beautiful street side shops
Homes squished against each other



















Porticos along the Belfort


The view down the Groenerei

















Grote Market and the Stadhuis by night

Another waffle stop...
Bacon chocolate? Ticks the boxes




















When Easter Monday rolled around we had a sleep-in and then a final walk through the quiet city. It was calm and peaceful. We decided to drive out to the coast to see Bruges' sea port, the Zeebrugge which was built in 1907. 
Bracing against the wind in Blankenburg

We got a little lost on the way and ended up at the nearby town of Blankenburg. That was ok; we walked out along the pier as the sand whipped up against us and we breathed in the fresh sea air. 

Eventually we made the move to start heading back home, our bellies full of delicious Belgian foods and our minds lost in the medieval lanes of Bruges.

Tot siens,
John and Kara

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