Nugget point to Te Anau, South Island, New Zealand

Old train bridges, Southland

As we drove south from Dunedin we weren't really sure what to expect in terms of the changing pastoral landscape.

It was green outside of the van's windows and the hills seemed to roll on endlessly. 

This part of New Zealand was unchartered territory for us and in anticipation for what we would find, we drove onwards down the sunny Otago coastline. 

Hitting a cow jam, Southland

As we motored down state highway one we admired the hundreds of sheep and after a lousy game of eye spy, got a good version of 'ninety nine sheep on the wall' happening.

That was, until we hit the mother of all traffic jams, it was a real cow jam! 

Nugget Point lighthouse and nuggets

We had been recommended to visit the Catlins Coast Forest Park which is on the South Island's eastern side while we were down this way. 

A bit of rugged New Zealand coastline where the hills started to jar out of the ground rising one above each other. 

However the bendy country roads were slowing us down and we knew we would never reach Te Anau by tomorrow evening as planned, had we taken the long back road. 

Nugget point lookout

So we decided to take a right turn towards Kaka point, drive down, have a short look around and then return to the main highway. We detoured down a peninsula between the cold South Pacific Ocean and aptly named Roaring Bay. It was there that we arrived at Nugget Point, one of the most iconic landforms on the coast. 

Located on a steep headland, the point has a large white lighthouse at its tip and is surrounded by rocky islets locally called 'the Nuggets'. Perhaps in reference to the coast's old coal and gold mining days. After parking up the van, making sure it was locked (you can't be too safe) we trekked toward the stand alone white lighthouse following a small gravel path. 

Roaring bay, Kaka point

Probably an easy stroll on a temperate day we were caught on a frontal assault from the roaring wind as we descended the steep hillside. Keeping as close to the hillside as possible in fear of being pushed off the edge, we watched the seagulls flying backwards, squawking and call out to each other. 

Southland beach, Catlins

The area is home to many seabirds, including penguins, gannets and a large breeding colony of fur seals. Today we could see a few seals basking below without a care in the world. They lay on flat slabs of rock which were enclosed by mounts of dark-green seaweed. Roaring Bay, a rocky beach to our right on the south coast of the tip, was stunning; the waves raced in across the shore, smashing the sand.

Standing out on the edge of the cliff on the small wooden platforms, gave us a sense of power; the salty air making knots in our hair but at the same time we felt a sense of how insignificant we really are against Mother Nature. We watched the beautiful blue ocean below us move with such strength pushing and plundering against the small rocks. 

It was late afternoon by the time we made it back to the van and in need of a shower we stopped for the evening at the Gore motor camp. There wasn't anything happening in Gore. 

We made quite a mess of things

Not ten minutes into our arrival at the campground the van was stuck in the wet sticky mud and we had torn up half the front yard with our back wheel.

We felt pretty awful about it but the owners understood. Then we found out the showers were cold and the kitchen was out of gas. We felt miserable. It was another uncomfortable pillow-less night in the van, and we tossed and turned all night cursing the silly people who had designed the camp's setup. 

The next morning we set off towards Bluff around 9am. We drove over the flat Southland plains and stopped for morning tea in Invercargill. Invercargill, set amongst rich pastoral farmland is the southernmost and westernmost city in New Zealand (and one of the most southernmost in the world!). After a snack and short drive through the city we continued onto Bluff. 

Railway hotel, Invercargill

Austin Powers van parked on Bluff Hill

Bluff is the southernmost township (not quite a city) of New Zealand and is notably dominated by high quality oysters. The best oysters in the world, hands down, and grown in the freezing cold clean waters around the Bluff coast. 

Sadly, we were out of season by just a month and there wasn't one fresh oyster to be seen! Feeling a little hard done by and not really enticed by the frozen oyster pies at the bakery we tried something different: a mutton bird pie. 

This small bird, which has long been a staple of southern cuisine, is a delicate, fatty and succulent feast. Mixed with rich brown gravy we gobbled it down and hit the town's main attraction: Bluff Hill. 

Tooooo windy, Bluff Hill

The large 265m hill is meant to provide some shelter from the freezing westerly winds, but today it wasn't doing its part. We drove the van up to the lookout and it literally wobbled in the strong winds. 

Opening the van door required extra effort to ensure the door wasn't thrown off its hinges. Only being able to walk sideways we approached the main lookout but could hardly keep our eyes open, with the strong wind pushing our lids shut. 

The wind whipped so loudly across our ears that it sounded like thousands of jets passing by.

The real bluff in Bluff 

We didn't stay at the lookout long, and drove down to the southern most tip: Stirling Point. 

There is an iconic signpost (similar to the one in Cape Reinga). Starting from there is also a walk along the shoreline through native bush up to a bluff. 

The town is named for this bluff, which was known to the early European whalers as Old Man's Bluff. We walked through the bush, protected from the wind, listening to the native birds chatting away about their day. 

It was peaceful under the trees and other folk out on their morning walks threw a cheery "Morning" our way.

Native Tui in the tree

Come on John move it along! 

Stirling Point, Bluff

Here is Auckland!

On the road again, on the road again! Leaving Southland we made the turn and began our trek north bound. First stop was Tuatapere.

Got us some bangers! 

Leaving through Invercargill

For decades, the tiny Southland town of Tuatapere on the fringe of Fiordland has laid claim to having the best bangers in the land (according to the 101 Kiwi Must Do's). So it was a side-stop seemingly worth making! But when we got to the teeny tiny town there was only one butcher and really not much else. Inside they had just two sausage varieties, beef or pork. We had worked it up in our minds to be a sausage wonderland, a sausage fest if you will, and although excited to try the sausages, we were also a little disappointed there weren't more exotic flavours or even more variety. We went with beef and the promise that they are the best beef sausages around.

Entering into Fiordland

There was another hour on the almost deserted road until we reached our final destination of Te Anau. 

So we quietly drove through the deep New Zealand beach, hardly seeing another soul. The gorgeous wild scenery kept us occupied and soon we reached Te Anau. The little gateway town is on the eastern shore of Lake Te Anau which borders the spectacular Fiordland district. 

Fiordland is renowned as a stunning sightseeing and walking destination. Home to over 14 fiords which are steep valleys cut across mountains. Lake Te Anau is breathtakingly beautiful. 

Lake Te Anau

The largest lake in the South Island, its mirror blue water was the first thing we saw when we arrived. Twice as deep as Scotland's Loch Ness it was carved out by a glacier millions of years ago and is exquisite.

Rising on the west side of the lake, the rugged Kepler and Murchison mountain ranges were lightly dusted in snow but the town was unbelievably warm. 

A yacht on Lake Te Anau

After the last few days of freezing winds it was balmy, wind free, 30 degrees and we soon realised that we had far too many layers on.

By then, it was mid afternoon and we took our time to walk around exploring the little town, meandering along the waterfront and down some of the side streets. 

There was plenty to do in town, and tourist offices were everywhere advertising helicopter rides, cruises and scenic flights to the rich and wealthy. 

We, however, preferred to just look around and absorb the amazingly fresh mountain air.

John by a large endangered Takahe bird

Picnic dinner on the lake front

It was absolutely blissful, calm and serene. 

So as the sky began to darken we dragged the mattresses out of the van and set up our little cooker along the water's edge. We barbecued our tasty award winning bangers and watched the sun go down on another day.

Tot siens,

John and Kara

Rising moon

Water plane waiting for tourists