Sunday, 11 August 2013

Hampi, Karnataka, India

By the swollen and surging Hampi river

Still raining? Yip! We hoped to escape the persistent monsoonal rain in Kerala and ventured north on an overnight train to Goa. Upon reaching Goa it was still raining! The kind that is persistent. The train arrived at 4.15am so we sat down on the ground with our bags, had coffee that was unreasonably hot and pondered our next move.

Rather than stay here in the rain we decided to catch the 7.30am train seven hours inland to Hospet which would get us a short bus ride away from Hampi in the region of Karnataka. Hampi wasn't on our original plan but after meeting many people who exclaimed it was their favourite place in India, we made the journey through the wet mountains.

The Hampi Bazzar
The train ride was dirty and smelly. We relaxed on the top sleeper beds and were well fed and hydrated by the many food sellers that travel through the train.

However we didn't appreciate the constant 'coffee, coffee, chai, chai' calls every 40 seconds- it was a bit overwhelming on the bladder. From the train, views were outstanding as we traveled over the high rugged mountains and through carefully built rice fields and acres of sunflower farms.

Looking over the main Hampi township
and Virupaksha temple 











Getting into Hampi from Hospet was more difficult than we expected as auto-rickshaw drivers seem to direct their full and utter attention towards any westerner with a backpack. Actually naming it harassment is probably being generous, it was like we were rotting meat and they were hungry flies. 



Kara relaxing outside a 13th century Jain temple


We had planned to bus the 12kms from the train station and even from within the bus they were still screaming at us! (Some English, some Hindu). On making it to Hampi our arrival then created a parade of rickshaw drivers looking to show us rooms (the guest houses give commissions to the drivers)… (so bad parade).

Aside from the annoying, over eager rick shaw drivers Hampi is beautiful: set within a landscape of giant granite boulders it feels like your stepping back into a different time. 


Climbing to Achutaraya Temple (highest point in Hampi)


The area around Hampi was the 15th century city Vijayanagar (and one of the largest Hindu empires of India). It was destroyed by Sultanates in 1565 and today visitors can literally wander around, over and on the ancient ruins of the city and its many, many godly temples. It is believed that the original city was built by magical Hindu monkey gods, of course their ancestors remain today in the form of cheeky little monkeys.




Looking toward an old palace ruin


It's beyond fascinating that even as a historic heritage town there are no limitations to touching, climbing or jumping on the ruins.

There seems to be a vibe that if the monkeys do it, people can to (and the goats, cows and wild cats)! We hope that in the future the government will also initiate some kind of pollution regulation in the area to help reduce the prevalent rubbish problem.  





Sunset point (check the monsoon cloud)

In Hampi we have hired bicycles to move around the thousands of temples and ruins quicker. Bike hire is about 40c a day and quite an economical option! It is also possible to walk to many temples, up and down the many hills.










The muslim 'Noble mans' quarters opposite the
Mohammadan temple 

Excitingly we have also escaped the rain, as per the plan… but it is hot!! A few days ago we bought some new SPF90 sunscreen from a local shop. We applied it three times in five hours only to get horrific sunburns.

We guess this demonstrates one of the ugly sides of travelling through India. People can be driven to push their own ethical and moral boundaries just to feed their families.






Needless to say we were a bit disappointed and took a day off to relax in our room and catch up on our forever growing pile of washing. With just a small bath tub we did the old stud and squish routine! 

Watching the sunset on the river
Although Hampi now survives on the tourist trade solely it remains economical if you can keep your wits about you.

Rooms range from 250-500 rupees (AUS$4.70-9.00), food is slightly more expensive than other areas we have been but we can eat comfortably on 150 rupees per day. We would definitely recommend a visit to this amazing little village in the middle of South India!

We have tried to included some of our top photos so far as we have so many!! So please scroll down to see more of Hampi.

Tot siens,
John and Kara


Visiting the inside of a temple (some where in rural Krishnapura)

Granite carvings inside a large temple
John with two magic men outside Virupaksha temple


Having a break after a bit of rockclimbing

Varaha Temple

A view from the underground temple





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