Segovia, Castile & Leon, Spain

The stunning Alcazar of Segovia

This week was a stressful and challenging week as John completed his first term examinations. So when Saturday rolled around we escaped North together to clear our heads and shake off the week. After weeks of anticipating a visit, we were finally able to take the opportunity to visit the small old town of Segovia in the Castille & Leon Province. Excited to visit Segovia, home to several of Spain's largest ancient treasures: the roman aqueduct and also the stunning Alcazar Castle, we left mid morning on Spain's efficient AVE line (the speed train). This meant that we were quickly over Madrid's stunning snow covered Guadalajara mountain range and into the beautiful township of Segovia in a record 30minutes. 

Snowy mountains against the plains of Castile

Located on the high flat plains of Castile, Segovia, translated in ancient Celtiberian as 'city of victory' or ' victorious city' has been named a special UNESCO heritage site. Although records are hazy as to the city's true origins, it is believed that Celtic people called the Vaccaei first inhabited the area around 75BC. Later control was passed to the Romans and Latin courts. Established formally around 50AD as a Roman colony, it's not one of the oldest settlements in Spain but by far one of the most beautiful we have visited yet. Surrounded by snow-peaked mountains and green fields bursting with brown coloured olive groves and wandering livestock the city is nestled quietly between the Esesma and Clamores rivers. 

Exploring the old city

Roman Aquaduct

Having once been an ancient Roman trading centre, the city was deserted and abandoned after the Moor invasion. However it was resettled with Christians after the Spanish reconquista becoming a splendour of the Middle Ages. As an important centre for wool and textiles the little town grew into a royal enclave and was home to many of Spain's royals. By 1594 the population rose to 27,000 citizens, including a large Jewish population.

As our train quickly arrived we raced out to find ourselves out in the surrounding countryside. We had to wait and catch a bus into the city! We ended up getting off too early and following green signs towards the old centre, which were really for cars, not people. A small snack at our favourite '100 Montaditos' and a chat to the friendly staff at the local information office, who explained where we went wrong, we began exploring.

Plaza Mayor and Segovia Cathedral 

The first thing you can't help but notice is the huge stone Roman aqueduct that traverses high across Plaza del Azoguejo. An important architectural monument in Segovia and throughout Spain, it's considered the best preserved piece of Roman history in the country. Built around the late first or early second century AD, it stands almost 30meters high with a total length of approx 32 kilometres. Stretching from the Fuente Fria river high in the mountains it runs across the plains traveling at a one percent decline before arriving in the city and finishing at the base of the Alcazar Castle. Once you stand under the large granite arches it gives you a real appreciation for the masonry, each stone just balancing on the other. From the plaza we walked left, up the stairs for a topside view.

Ancient cobbled alleys

Exploring Segovia

Jump over to the neighbours

Small local bars

What we loved about Segovia is that the small city feels like you are almost stepping back into medieval times with its small preserved cobbled streets and wooden archways. The roads are narrow and dark opening up into large open plazas. As we reached the grand Plaza Mayor, shaded from the winter sun and surrounded by cafes and shops we admired the imposing Segovia cathedral across the square. 

Noted as a powerful expression of gothic architecture the cathedral was built as a dedication to the Virgin Mary in the mid sixteenth century. 

View from Juan tower, Alcazar

We didn't stop long though and continued walking to get to the handsome Alcazar of Segovia. This magnificent stone fortress was believed to have been built on the foundations of an old Roman fort. First references to the castle date back to 1120, during the time when King Alfonso VI reconquered the lands. It was his grandson King Alfonso VIII and wife, Eleanor of England, who made the Alcazar into a royal threshold. 

Alcazar gardens

Close up, East-side

Exploring the armoury 

Inside the Alcazar Palace

Stain glass in the Alcazar

Royal throne room

Throughout the middle ages the amazing castle was home to kings and queens of the Castile kingdom. Exploring the castle was our highlight of Segovia! Settled right on the top of a small hill and towards the edge of the historical city limit, its view reigns over the countryside and out over the city.

Inner court yard

Late breakfast, tapa and beer

The castle watches down on the old city walls and outwards towards many of the city's monasteries. Approaching it, through the carefully crafted gardens, it is easy to imagine young fair and golden haired princesses sitting, basking in the glorious sunlight at the bay windows with their ladies in waiting. There once would have been strong armour clad knights standing guard over the moat and horses restlessly waiting by old stables. After getting tickets, we toured the restored rooms and castle armoury and found, with all the stone, it was quite chilly inside! The best part of the tour was climbing the 150 narrow, windy stairs to the top of the Juan tower in the middle of the castle. The views were outstanding across the Castile plains! 

Castile Plains, South View from Juan Tower

Although our trip was threatened with the prospect of a rain shower and with it still technically being winter (yip- we were wearing gloves!) it didn't stop many of the restaurants setting up their outdoor dining and the city was very lively with people, so we went off hunting for lunch. 

After our late lunch and a wander down the aqueduct we headed back home. What a fantastic trip.

Tot siens, 

John and Kara 

And finally waiting for the train home