Where are John and Kara?: Medieval Pueblo Chinchón, Spain

View from under the clock tower towards Plaza Mayor

Spain's large cities have been growing and expanding with the influence of the European Union and its relatively generous open borders since the 20th century.

As demand for residential land pushes endlessly further and the sprawling of city boundaries grows smaller, traditional Spanish villages and pueblos are relentlessly being engulfed. Many are fighting to remain both traditional and to continue to celebrate their rich history.

Locals making use of the town square

Chinchón village

The old Spanish pueblos are the old beating hearts of Spain where locals return to visit family each weekend or to participate in festivals. The opportunity to visit a pueblo can transport you back in time to a simpler way of life and share with you a glance of what were and in some cases are still Spain's most emblematic buildings.

The towns, often old and worn, are spoken of in such a manner that you feel like they are a member of the family. It is common to see an old grey abuelo perhaps who spends his days resting in the hot sunshine idly chatting to neighbours who past by and confidently content in the work he has achieved.

Views out towards the olive groves

From the tallest towers of Madrid across the Iberian Plato and fertile plain of Tajuña you can see the village of Chinchón. A traditional Roman settlement in the form of irrigation and roads mix with old Arabic remains and the sandy white walls and typical tiled houses lay tucked around one another. The sleepy pueblo nestles in the hillside surrounded by olive groves and well cultivated vineyards.

Exploring Plaza Mayor, the main square

Entrance to Counts Castle

Remains of Counts Castle

Chinchón described by our tourist guide as 'painted, drawn and dreamt over a thousand times' is classically medieval. The town square, it's plaza mayor, once a popular meeting place, held cattle markets, open air theatrical shows and combat on horse. Spectators would hang over the now forest green wooden balconies and cheer for their namesake. It was home to the public laundry and many of the older generation still remember visiting the small bodegas which lined the Plaza.

The village horizon is dominated by a broken and derelict castle erected in the late 1500's, which looks down across the village. Suffering the weather of time, fire, war and other historic events it stands proudly watching over the surrounding district.

Forest green verandas along the main square

Even on a Saturday afternoon the town quietly buzzes. Local farmers have come to the town square to sell their fruit and vegetables. Shops selling artisan breads are open and warm smells waft through the open doors, families have gathered for lunch and as such we also slowly made our way down the narrow cobbled streets in search of lunch.

Under a large white umbrella we consumed the local white bean stew with chicken roasted in local garlic drizzled with a tart fresh olive oil. Renowned for it's garlic production the village boosts a reputation of producing the most beautiful essence of pearl, young and flavourful garlic in Spain.

Waiting for lunch to arrive

Large cave pots

Wine and tapa

After lunch and exploring the Plaza we wandered around the nearby streets which, without a care, turned and twisted up and down around the houses. On such a windless day, we sought refugee from the sun in an underground and ancient cave. The natural bat cave, opened in 1706 was used by the King's nights to store large terracotta pots. Local farmers would pour the regional granacha grape to mull and ferment in the cool temperatures. For a euro, accompanied by meat and bread we could try the wine in small rusty orange coloured terracotta pots. The kind that stick to your lip as to not waste a drop. The cave spread out like a star and each arm offered a small corridor home to the large pots.

Pots in the underground caves

Entering the caves!

After this we walked up the hill towards the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, that stands tall and majestic. Towards the left a large stone clock tower looks out watchfully over the village with views down towards the Plaza Mayor. A perfect place to perhaps watch the annual running of the bulls in July during the festival of Santiago Apóstol. The bull fighting season uncommonly still take place in the village's unusual and unique circular town square. Evidence of this is clear as the Plaza is covered in a light grey and fine gravel. After our exploring we stopped here to enjoy the local limoncello and also several small glassses of the anis (the denomination of Chinchón since 1989).