Naarden, North Holland, Netherlands

Ariel view of Naarden (photo from google images)

We set off this morning in good spirits, it was a cloudy and overcast morning and the cool air was thick with low fog. 

But we weren't overly bothered by the weather. 

Decked out in our new cycling gear, we left our homey abode heading out for the star-shaped city fortress of Naarden, twenty five kilometres east of Amsterdam.

Passing windmills along the Vecht river

We certainly looked forward to arriving at our destination but we found the journey just as fulfilling. We cycled through the flat middle polder lands and large wetlands, down along the wide rivers past windmills and under bridges. 

Cycling along our legs pumped  almost as fast as we could make them go and we kept low against the wind but nevertheless speedy pelotons of cyclists raced by, like they were cheetahs and we were house cats.

We made it to Naarden, the small city built to protect the eastern side of Amsterdam and surrounded by an amazing star-shaped fort, complete with fortified walls and a double moat. 

Setting off from home! 

Following the bike paths

Although it grew out of strategic importance, the township has a long history. First recorded and mentioned in documents around the 9th century at the time of the vikings, it was merely a small town of fishermen and traders. 

Arriving into the fortified city of Naarden

However during the 13th and 14th centuries a couple of monstrous storms swept over Holland. Hundreds of thousands of acres of land were washed away from what locals called the waterwolf and a giant inland sea was created, the Southern Sea (Zuiderzee). The old town of Naarden was almost completely submerged and was abandoned in the year 1350. Quickly, the hardy refugees created a complete new town, a couple of miles inland on higher ground. The new Naarden rapidly became the regional capital at the time, and developed into a prosperous merchant town. 

City Hall, Naarden

Terrace dining on the main street

Spanish House

Historic Dutch buildings

Because of its location, Naarden suffered much more destruction and misery by war. Like in the beginning of the Dutch Eighty-Years-War of independence in 1572, when an invading Spanish army on an expedition burned it to the ground and massacred most citizens. 

Walking up Kloosterstraat

Exploring the walls

It was after that, that the town was built up again, and gradually surrounded by an elaborate star-shaped defense system. The town saw much more fighting, but by miracle the old centre within the city walls has kept its unique 17th century atmosphere intact. Today Naarden is one of the best preserved fortified towns in Europe.

Jogging along the embankments

Once we arrived warm, sweaty and tired we parked up the bikes and went in search for lunch. Lunch was good and satisfying and, as we ate, we watched and cheered-on the last stragglers of a local marathon. The main street which runs across the length of the little city was busy with cafes and small terraces of supporters lining the cobbled road. We went off exploring the city's fortified walls and returned to the Grote Kerk. From ground level it was harder to see the city's star shape so we had to use our imaginations a little, we guess that just makes it all the more amazing that they built it so symmetrical.

Naarden's Grote Kerk

Drink stop at the city well

The (great) church in the town centre is one of the oldest surviving churches in The Netherlands, having had the good fortune to survive the Spanish invasion of 1572 and the subsequent burning of the town. It wasn't open until later in the afternoon so we just walked around the outside. It's believed that its alter stone is the last remaining piece saved from the old town when the water wolf took hold. 

Out on the main street one of the most beautiful buildings we saw was the Spaanse Huis. The Spanish House was designed to commemorate the massacre of 1572 when the house, originally a church, was ransacked by Spanish troops who massacred some 700 inhabitants who had gathered inside to hear a peace proposal. Sad story. 

Pit stop at the Zuiderzee

After our short stay, we hopped back on our bikes and followed the Northern Sea line back into Amsterdam. The morning clouds long gone we rode into the fiery afternoon sun. Along the way we made a short detour in Muiden. The town of Muiden is home to the legendary Muider Castle built in 1370.

First glimpse of the castle

Up close and personal 

Main street of Muiden, along the canal

Like something from the Middle Ages the castle rises from the flat green field lands which surround it. We cycled through the picturesque little town and continued on our way home feeling quite impressed with our efforts today, cycling over 55 kilometers. Go us!

Tot siens,

John and Kara