Medieval Pueblo Chinchón, Spain

View from under the clock tower towards Plaza Mayor

Spain's large cities have been growing and expanding with the influence of the European Union and its relatively generous open borders since the 20th century. 

As demand for residential land pushes endlessly further and the sprawling of city boundaries grows smaller, traditional Spanish villages and pueblos are relentlessly being engulfed. Many are fighting to remain both traditional and to continue to celebrate their rich history.

Locals making use of the town square

Chinchón village

The old Spanish pueblos are the old beating hearts of Spain where locals return to visit family each weekend or to participate in festivals. The opportunity to visit a pueblo can transport you back in time to a simpler way of life and share with you a glance of what were and in some cases are still Spain's most emblematic buildings. 

The towns, often old and worn, are spoken of in such a manner that you feel like they are a member of the family. It is common to see an old grey abuelo perhaps who spends his days resting in the hot sunshine idly chatting to neighbours who past by and confidently content in the work he has achieved. 

Views out towards the olive groves

From the tallest towers of Madrid across the Iberian Plato and fertile plain of Tajuña you can see the village of Chinchón. A traditional Roman settlement in the form of irrigation and roads mix with old Arabic remains and the sandy white walls and typical tiled houses lay tucked around one another. The sleepy pueblo nestles in the hillside surrounded by olive groves and well cultivated vineyards. 

Exploring Plaza Mayor, the main square

Entrance to Counts Castle

Remains of Counts Castle

Chinchón described by our tourist guide as 'painted, drawn and dreamt over a thousand times' is classically medieval. The town square, it's plaza mayor, once a popular meeting place, held cattle markets, open air theatrical shows and combat on horse. Spectators would hang over the now forest green wooden balconies and cheer for their namesake. It was home to the public laundry and many of the older generation still remember visiting the small bodegas which lined the Plaza. 

The village horizon is dominated by a broken and derelict castle erected in the late 1500's, which looks down across the village. Suffering the weather of time, fire, war and other historic events it stands proudly watching over the surrounding district. 

Forest green verandas along the main square

Even on a Saturday afternoon the town quietly buzzes. Local farmers have come to the town square to sell their fruit and vegetables. Shops selling artisan breads are open and warm smells waft through the open doors, families have gathered for lunch and as such we also slowly made our way down the narrow cobbled streets in search of lunch. 

Under a large white umbrella we consumed the local white bean stew with chicken roasted in local garlic drizzled with a tart fresh olive oil. Renowned for it's garlic production the village boosts a reputation of producing the most beautiful essence of pearl, young and flavourful garlic in Spain. 

Waiting for lunch to arrive

Large cave pots

Wine and tapa

After lunch and exploring the Plaza we wandered around the nearby streets which, without a care, turned and twisted up and down around the houses. On such a windless day, we sought refugee from the sun in an underground and ancient cave. The natural bat cave, opened in 1706 was used by the King's nights to store large terracotta pots. Local farmers would pour the regional granacha grape to mull and ferment in the cool temperatures. For a euro, accompanied by meat and bread we could try the wine in small rusty orange coloured terracotta pots. The kind that stick to your lip as to not waste a drop. The cave spread out like a star and each arm offered a small corridor home to the large pots. 

Pots in the underground caves

Entering the caves! 

After this we walked up the hill towards the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption, that stands tall and majestic. Towards the left a large stone clock tower looks out watchfully over the village with views down towards the Plaza Mayor. A perfect place to perhaps watch the annual running of the bulls in July during the festival of Santiago Apóstol. The bull fighting season uncommonly still take place in the village's unusual and unique circular town square. Evidence of this is clear as the Plaza is covered in a light grey and fine gravel. After our exploring we stopped here to enjoy the local limoncello and also several small glassses of the anis (the denomination of Chinchón since 1989). 

Quiet, calm and restful 

Exploring the cobbled streets

Calle de los Huertos

Church of our Lady Assumption

Tot siens,

John and Kara

Three amigos taking a break

Versailles Palace, Versailles, Paris

This blog is a short overview of our afternoon trip to the Chateau of Versailles, in Île-de-France, Paris.

Panoramic of the entrance court yard and plaza

The main attraction in Versailles is the Chateau of Versailles, a huge, grand Palace which was once the main political power house in France from 1682 until the beginning of the French revolution in 1789.  Located only 20 kilometers from Paris we were fortunate to have a spectacular afternoon enjoying the French hospitality and admiring what was once home to several famous French Royals.

Entering the Palace

After a morning exploring artsy Montemarte (see Paris blog) and fluffing around waiting for a train we thought might never arrive, we reached Versailles and hunted down a spot for a late lunch.    

Versailles Chateau (currently a hotel)

After hoovering and inhaling our way through a warm and crispy oven baked chicken and apricot pizza at a roadside terrace we picked up a bottle of Champagne, several varieties of nibbles and made our way to the famous Chateau (which had very high security measures and asked us to check in our bags! darn it!).

Well, it was worth a try!

Scene of 'Hercules' on the roof in the Kings apartment

Walking towards the Palace late on Saturday afternoon was breath taking, the weather was quite temperamental and the sun shone beautiful rays on light across the building, through dark and stormy clouds, lighting up the facades and golden awnings in a way that made them shine and catch the eye. 

Inside the Palace was just as stunning and perhaps one of the most beautiful Palaces in the world (in our opinion).
In particular we were drawn to the amazing art and frescos which decorated the roofs in the King's apartment. Straining our necks at bizarre angles to take it all in, we looked like baby penguins waiting with our mouths open and eyes bulging.

Another spectacular room was the Hall of mirrors. Kara was so distracted by the shiny lights she even scratched her new sun glasses when spinning around like sugar ravaged fly.

After exploring the Palace room by room we collected our bags from security and by then were able to enter the Palace gardens. Here we plodded ourselves down next to a small tranquil lake, filled with large hungry carp and out of the watchful eye of the roaming guards. We quite cordially enjoyed the tart taste of our Champagne whilst watching the orange carp jumping in the lake and catching the last of the May sunshine.

Inside the Hall of Mirrors

Below are a few more snaps from the palace. Please feel free to browse!

Tot Siens,
John and Kara

Statues in the garden foyer, Versailles

 

Grand balconies, Versailles 

Inside the Queens sitting room

White marble stature

Art on the roof in the Kings apartment

Queen consort quarters

Lounge rooms for the ladies in waiting

Roman Emperor

Roman Emperor

Coat of Arms

Champagne and nibbles in the park

View of the Palace from the garden 

Paris, France

Entering the Cathedral of Notre Dame

This blog follows our whirlwind tour through the famed French capital and what was our first trip to France together. Paris, a global centre for gastronomy, art, fashion and culture is enchanting and picturesque, famous as the city of lights. Sophisticated and historical the magical aurora pulls travellers from across Europe and the world. A hub for the misty romantics, inspiring novels, heart spoken poems, films and plays, Paris enchants and inspires.

Invited to attend the annual MBAT sports tournament we were jumping in our shoes at the opportunity to see and experience the magic of Paris. Pairing up with two other couples we rented a small cozy local flat through Airbnb just a short walk North of the Cathedral of Notre Dame. Although the weather forecast predicted gloomy weather, the fear of thunderstorms didn't deter us at all. 

Aside the Love Lock bridge

In fact, we arrived early on a beautiful blue spring Thursday  making our way from the Beauvais airport by transfer bus we caught a bit more shut eye. (Note: Don't fly to Paris with Ryan air. The airport is almost actually in Belgium).
Then after dropping off our bags quickly at the flat we were straight out the door. First stop the impressive Cathedral of Notre Dame, an 800 year old National treasure. We aren't sure what was better the inside or outside! Although... we looked, we never saw the hunchback.  The cathedral has over its years experienced glory and tragedy - from the crowning of Henry sixth to falling in a state of disrepair later refurbished by Napoleon.

The rest of the afternoon we walked and walked! Down back roads and along main roads, aside the canals and over bridges we walked as the sun warmed our backs. Although we've read that Paris isn't well known as a walkable city we were surprised how flat it is (but yes, its quite spread out).

All of the love locks

Eventually, we all met up for lunch about 3pm (still on Spanish time) at a small French pub only a stones throw away from the famous and struggling love lock bridge for salmon baguettes.

Views from the second balcony of the Eiffel tower

Strong, dark and iconic

Arc de Triomphe

Next up - the Eiffel tower. Widely recognised as one of the worlds most important landmarks! But truthfully the tower was a little bit smaller looking than we anticipated, however still magnificent. It's amazing to think it was built in 1889 as the entrance to a world fair, with the intention to later dismantle it. It's certainly come a long way from its humble and highly criticised beginnings. Being a mid week day the crowds weren't too bad (also considering the tower is the world's most visited paid monument) within 40minutes we had our tickets and were marching... or perhaps panting up the 600+ stairs.
We could go as high as the second platform which is about the middle of the tower, because the top was closed. It was considerably chilly up there and as the rain clouds loomed in we quickly took in the amazing views across Paris and motored back down! 

After slowly coming down and feeding our hunger bug we waltzed toward the Arc de Triomphe, adorned with a huge flag to celebrate Victory Day (end of WW2) the following day. It was here that John informed everyone that this is one of the most dangerous roundabouts in Europe and that insurers wont cover for an accidents occurring here.... 1....2.... bang! A truck drove straight over a small car in front of us! Oh dear! After a quick visit we headed back to gorge on the French cheese and duck paté.

Winners at the MBAT rugby tournament!

Slightly injured but hanging in there

When our second day rolled around the guys were up and out very early heading off to their tournament. We followed several hours later by Uber taxi with a call from the injured! Drama aside the venture to Je jous was stunning as we drove through Paris's smaller suburbs, were we stopped several times for the local Victory Day parades to move through.


While we waited we watched the elderly idily chatting with each other sitting with baguettes in their bags and flowers in their hair. We passed colourful florists, French cafes, churches and monuments. After checking the sickly at the hospital we manage to weasel our way into the event and spent the rest of the day on the HEC campus quite happily watching a multitude of drunk adults from around Europe participate in highly competitive sporting pursuits (we also had quite a good spot to watch the fortitude of ambulances coming in and out). It was a stunning campus with hiking trails, lakes, fields and of course classrooms!

By the time we got home we were knackered (some of us a bit bruised and broken) but that didn't stop us from getting up early for breakfast of cheese croissants before marching off to explore the Montmartre district.

Waiting patiently for our crepes! 

Outside the stunning Sacré Coeur Basilica, Montmartre

Eiffel tower by night! 

This area of Paris was bustling with visitors and packed with cafes, quaint restaurants and artists. Originally home to several famous artists such as Picasso, Vincent van Gogh, Salvador Dali and more the area is now very hip and contemporary. Here, behind the Basilica we watched several artists draw portraits and tried our first French crepe filled with ham, cheese and egg. Yummy! The huge white domed Sacré Coeur Basilica (Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris) which sits proudly on Paris' highest summit, was stunning with fantastic views but maybe a bit touristy. 

The adventure continued towards Versailles (separated into our next blog) and we returned just as the sun set.
After a long relaxed dinner we returned to watch the Eiffel tower twinkle in the evening darkness like being blown by pixie dust, before walking home. Although it was late, we took our time enjoying the fresh evening air and walking slowly over the canals and past the old lit up buildings.

Restaurants down Av. Montaigne

Cloth markets down the streets of Place Saint-Perre

Outside the Louvre 

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 

Sunday was a busy day and the warmest yet. After checking out we ventured towards the famous Louvre through the Tuileries gardens and up Champs Elysees. We stopped for something special at the bakery and bought olives and more paté at the supermarket before heading home. Paris really surprised us, the people were far friendly than we anticipated often stopping and asking if we were lost and compared to the Spanish the general level and English ability was so much higher. If we got another chance we will be back to Paris in a heart beat to continue exploring the amazing city. 

Fancy a seat at the Tuileries gardens? 

Musee de Louvre

Tot Siens,
John and Kara

Home of the Flamenco, Granada, Andalucia, Spain

View out across Granada

This past weekend not only did we celebrate a birthday but Spain celebrated with us! The first weekend of May is an official long weekend in Spain as they celebrate 'dos de Mayo'. 

This is the day in history which the Spanish civil war begun with a few rascals beginning the shenanigans against the French outside the Royal Palace (eventually leading to the Spanish Rebellion). 

Egg and Ham Tapa

With an extra day leave from study we booked bus tickets to Granada last February. Granada in South Spain and the capital of the Andalusia Province is most well known for its flamenco, free tapas and its Alhambra Palace! A mix of Mediterranean, old Castile and Arab influences fuse together to make the well established Granada (est. 5500 BC) an exotic and tasty experience. 

Orange trees and Cathedrals

On the way to Granada and during our five hour bus trip, we meandered south driving through thousands upon thousands of hectares of olive groves. It was quite spectacular the way they lined the hillsides and weaved up the mountains. Jumping forward to our arrival. It was super warm. It's hard to emphasise how hot but like middle of summer blistering, uncomfortable 35 degree + hot.... And it's only spring! It was quite an unexpected surprise for us.

Hello you delicious potato tapa

From the bus we checked into our guesthouse and then started roaming for somewhere to eat lunch! Granada, home of the tapa, didn't disappoint. Each time you order a caña of the local beer it is accompanied with a plate of free Spanish food of your choice! We tried Patatas Bravas, local Salmorejo, salmon and creamy blue on crusty bread, cheesy nachos and more. 

After lunch we walked around the financial shopping centre, down the main streets all lined with citrus fruits. but a lot of stores were closed for the siesta so we took to the streets fairly aimlessly to see what we could find. 

Found the Granada Cathedral! 

On Saturday morning, we were the first at the breakfast buffet and left early to stand in queue for the very limited tickets of the Alhambra Palace (having tried over a month prior to buy online). When we got there it seemed that some families had been there for hours! We were some of the last to get afternoon tickets. 

Streets enjoying the evening sunset on Friday

With six hours till our entry time we decided to check out a water feature we had seen on our walk the day before. Then we just kept walking and walking! The old town is like a mouse maze. The old white houses felt cool and little 'abuelos' sat high up on verandas smothered by purple and pink flowers. Underneath we got lost like mice looking for the cheese. We walked all the way up past the city towards the Emma San Miguel lookout. With a fantastic view down over the expanding city we realized we were famished! 

Inside the Palace of Nazaríes

For our second breakfast we tried an Arab inspired restaurant and consumed a huge creamy spiced falafel kebab.

After a short nap, a bit of shopping and a nosy at at an outdoor flamenco expo that had begun we begun our tour of the Alhambra. 

Walking the Carrera del Darro 

The walk up the exceedingly steep hill in the dry heat was the toughest part about our trip. 

Clearly when they built the palace high up nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains they didn't think about the poor future tourists having to scamper up to the entrance! Hahaha! 
Although it was only 3pm by the time we arrived it felt like 40degrees, (unsurprisingly the bus stop thermometer read 38degrees! Ek!) 

View of the Palace at the foothills of Sierra Nevada

Once in, we explored the absolutely gorgeous Alhambra over the next three hours. The Alhambra is unique because of it's Muslamic influence, built around the 11th century the Palace is now one of Spain's most visited attractions. 

As the Empires rose and fell the Palace continued to grow in size and stature and each King contributed to its development in their own unique way building Cathedrals, bathing houses, chambers and towers. 

Later, to celebrate her birthday Kara got her hands on the most splendid flamenco costume! Not one to be left out she doned a huge red flower in her hair and joined the thousand or so locals who were dressed in an array of the most fabulous colours just enjoying themselves in the city. John was quietly happy to admire and be in charge of taking photos. Hehehe. 

Walking through the Albaicín district

Gardens in the Palace of Generalife

As the weather peaked it's high at 7pm, we dressed up we went for several tapas trying mini hamburgers, pescado frito, croquetas, pickled pork and more of those yummy (but not so healthy) patatas with a range of different sauces! 

Outside the Palace of Carlos V

Yum! More free tapas

The history and festivities made the atmosphere of Granada unique. Strong soulful cries of the flamenco songs rung out between the towering cathedrals and small bazaars. Cabelleros dressed in traditional clothing rode horses down the main roads and old men sat together playing Spanish guitar. 

As well as the National holiday, in Granada May 3rd celebrated as Dia de la Cruz (Day of the cross) heightening the already buzzing atmosphere and the reason that thousands of locals wore traditional costumes. 

Later when we stumbled back worn out and with aching feet we consciously agreed a sleep-in was in order. Sunday was our last opportunity to walk off our growing swollen food bellies. As we walked back to the bus station we took our last chance to breathe in the warm southern air and together jumped between one shaded building to the other the whole way back to the bus station!

Tot siens,

John and Kara

Spot the snowy mountains of Sierra Nevada