Zeeland & Ghent, Flanders, NL and Belgium

Driving through the Netherlands low lands

Another weekend, another race! This Saturday we drove south into the Flanders region and province of Zeeland or 'sea-land'. 

The province, located in the south-west of the country, is made up of a number of islands and peninsulas. As the Netherlands is such a small country it was a relatively short drive across the flooded lowlands. 

There are two things interesting about Zeeland, the first is that it's New Zealand's namesake. Our little New Zealand was first discovered by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman in 1642, although he did not land in New Zealand, the Dutch authorities still named it Nova Zeelandia in Latin, Nieuw Zeeland in Dutch. It was the English Captain James Cook who subsequently anglosaxionised it and called our old home New Zealand.

Kara has her number!

John ready at the start line

The second thing was that Zeeland had an ancient goddess, which sounds pretty cool. Nehalennia, of either Celtic or pre-Germanic origin was a regional goddess who was worshiped around the 2nd century BC. During the Roman Era, her main function appeared to be the protection of travellers, especially seagoing travellers crossing the North Sea. Not at all unlike us, except the bit about the boats. However to get to the town of Terneuzen where our race started we did have to cross the sea, so we're sure that counts. 

Running right to the end, over there!

Because the province of Zeeland is made up of islands and peninsulas it was a widely contested area until 1299, when the last Count of Holland died and the Count of Hainaut took over. "That's my island!" "No that's my island", kind of thing. 

Staying at our Airbnb, Ghent

After the Hainuats, the counts of Bravia, Burgundy and then the Hasburgs all took control of the area. It gained its independence as a province under the Hasburgs of Flanders in 1585 and although fighting resumed for many centuries it was only after the eighty years war that Zeeland moved into the kingdom of the Netherlands (but just to make things confusing, part of it remains in the Flanders region).  

To recap briefly on the race, it was TOUGH. Tough with full capitals, battling against a 64kilomter per hour (gale force 6) head wind the ancient goddess Nehalennia wasn't on our side. In fact she was probably downright mad about something. Different from our past events this ten kilometre track, was five kilometres one way and a five kilometre return, so we made excellent times in the first five with the wind on our back and had an abysmal return. It was more physically exhausting than any race yet, but undefeated we finished and conquered it. 

After catching our breaths, we moved on down to Ghent, just a mere 30 kilometres south, ready to recover with all kinds of delicious Belgium delicacies. 

Exploring Grootkanonplein

Fancy-looking post office

Ghent is a city of history. During the Middle Ages, it was one of the richest and most powerful cities in Europe. It still breathes an atmosphere of a thriving late-medieval city state having been restored, but it certainly isn't as popular as Brussels or Bruges. Today, Ghent is also a university city with more than 60,000 students. We arrived into Ghent in no time, checking in at our Airbnb and then making our way into the old city centre.

Sint Jakobskerk

Waffles all round

Warming our bellies

View over Sint-Michielshelling

Ghent goes back in time so far that archaeological evidence shows human presence in the region as far as the Stone and Iron Age. It was when the Franks invaded the Roman territories (from the end of the 4th century and well into the 5th century) they brought their language with them and Celtic and Latin were replaced by Old Dutch. The Frank's were responsible for much of Ghent's growth (similar to Antwerp and Bruges) and built large abbeys (St Peter's and St Bavos) which acted like nuclei, attracting residents, traders and workers. In 851 and 879, the old city was attacked and plundered twice by the then undefeated Vikings.

The towers of Jakobskerk

But with the protection of the Flanders, the city recovered and flourished from the 11th century. 

By the 13th century, Ghent was huge and up to 65,000 people lived within the city walls. During the Middle Ages, Ghent was the leading city for cloth and sheep herding was good business. 

Disappointingly for us though, it turned out to be a cold and wet afternoon. The rain drizzled a little and then moved on, drizzled a little more and moved on but it consistently stayed cold. 

We found somewhere to keep warm and enjoyed the afternoon from inside a cozy bar, drinking wheat beer and eating Belgium chocolates.

John walking along the Leie river canal

On Sunday we were up early, probably a little dehydrated from yesterday's efforts but as the morning looked clear we didn't dilly dally around. We left in search of the city's historic sites knowing that everyone else would be enjoying a sleep-in and that we could walk the streets in peace! But after we arrived, the old centre was already buzzing with life. Small flea markets were in their initial stages of setting up in the cobbled squares and waffle trucks were already warming up, their aroma sickly sweet. 

Grey shutters on the Dutch style house

All the faces!

Crossing the almost still Leie river we found we were alone and enjoyed a few minutes of quiet, staring up at the medieval Dutch houses, wondering what life must have been like hundreds of years ago when the houses were built.

Dutch style homes

Houses caught in the sun

Strolling around the empty squares

Amazing Dutch style and decoration

Approaching Gravensteen Castle

Gravensteen Castle, Ghent

Coming around a corner we encountered the Gravensteen Castle, which was built in 1180 by count Philip of Alsace. 

First built as a wooden castle in the ninth century it served as the seat of Flanders until they abandoned it in the 14th century. The castle was then used as a courthouse, a prison and eventually decayed. 

Houses were built against the walls and even on the courtyard and the stones of the walls were used to erect other buildings. At the end of the 19th century, the castle was scheduled to be demolished but was bought by the city and restored. We walked around its moat and marvelled at how the huge castle sits idly within a busy city centre as if it almost has been zapped from the past into our future. The photo can hardly do it justice.

Statue in Vrijdagmarkt

Gravensteen Castle, moat side

Outside the restored houses

John heading away from Sint Niklaaskerk

Panoramic of the Korenmarkt

Sint Michielskerk

We enjoyed plodding about until we were hit with a passing rain shower and had to take refuge! 

It was time for a late breakfast anyway! After our pit-stop we hit the cobbled streets again and explored the Korenmarkt, Grote Markt, Goudenleeuwplein and picturesque Korenlei. We decided that we couldn't choose a favourite between Antwerp (see our Easter blog) and Ghent as both are very beautiful and quite unique. 

Kara with the Belfry

Sint Niklaaskerk

John's Church

Kara by the town hall

Just pull your boat up to the "water house at the beer side"!

Medieval houses against the Leie river Canal

One of our favourite buildings was the town hall, close to the Belfry tower. The Belfry (pictured above) is the tallest Belfry tower in Belgium and was completed in 1380.

What is unique about the tower, other than its height is its golden dragon which carefully watches out over the city, sitting high up in the tower. 

Graseli waterfront, Ghent

It's believed that the church offered the city's residents a safe haven during the Viking attacks. 

As the Sunday morning bells were ringing it wasn't hard to imagine they were calling out an impending attack! 

Also very picturesque was the Graseli a beautiful waterfront promenade, which when after the morning rain passed over was absolutely charming!  

After our mosey round we started back for home, ready for an early night to rest our tired legs!

Tot siens,

John and Kara

Den Helder, North Holland, Netherlands

Den Helder Dijk, Northern most tip of North Holland

This Sunday we had the opportunity to partake in another race! This time in Den Helder, located right at the tip of North Holland. We knew it wasn't going to be an easy race as it was in fact, going to be the longest run we've ever done! 

It certainly was going to be a test but we held hope that all the training would pay off.

The night before, Kara was under the weather with an upset stomach so it was with nervous anticipation and probably close to four bathroom visits we left home early on Sunday!

The drive north was pleasant, we passed hundreds of wind turbines, strange pyramid-shaped houses and acres of gorgeous coloured tulip fields. We arrived in time to grab a coffee and do a quick warm up around the harbor. It was turning out to be a glorious day with low wind and barely a cloud in the sky. 

Like sardines in a can at the starting line

Warming up along the marina

When the starting gun went off, we were ready! Squished between other competitors we attempted a high five and let ourselves surge forward in the wave of warm, excited bodies. The start is always tough but living in a land of giants we also had to watch out for elbows which seem to be at eye level. The course, which was 13.7 kilometres long, wound around the small city and then looped north up towards the sea. It was hot going as the sun beat down on us but like the rest of the country, the race was flat and the scenery beautiful.

Here comes Kara

John taking a lead

We both finished the race and felt so proud of ourselves! With energy left from who knows where, we washed up, changed and went off exploring the small city of Den Helder.

Kara made it!!!!

John with his medal! 

Den Helder was once a tiny hamlet, not even a village until the mid 1700’s when it was decided that the peninsula it was built on would make a very good harbour. It subsequently became a base for the Royal Dutch Navy (who still make up a large part of the small city). 

It's not Dutch without the canals!

The city water tank built in 1910

Due to its strategic location, during the Dutch Golden Age, ships would be assembled near Den Helder and sail from there to the world's oceans. However at the end of the 18th century, an English and Russian army attacked Den Helder and captured the Dutch naval fleet. They recovered but shortly after, on a freezing January evening in 1795 they were attacked again. 

Canals in the city

The historic 'Capture of the Dutch fleet at Den Helder' occurred after an extraordinary charge across the frozen Zuiderzee that particularly cold winter, this time the French captured 14 Dutch ships and 850 guns. 

This capture of ships by horsemen was a unique feat in military history but ultimately led to more fighting and the development of a fortified navel base. 

The Zuidzee, North Holland

Although seen as a defendable naval base, the waters around Den Helder were not the best for sailing. In fact the current was so strong between Den Helder and the neighbouring island of Marsdiep that a large number of their ships foundered and were lost. 

It's believed that the city received its name from these currents and that the area was initially called Helledore (which translates as Hells Door) this evolved onto Helsdeur and then into today's Helder.

Nevertheless, Den Helder became a well known port for both naval and merchant sailors alike.  Merchant ships would sail in convoy from there to trade in the far reaches of the earth. 

The houses were very cute

Lange Jaap lighthouse

We drove happily through the town, until we reached the tall fiery red Lange Jaap (long James) lighthouse. Constructed at the end of the 19th century to aid ships' safety, it's one of the tallest active traditional lighthouses in the world at 65.45m (and the tallest in Europe).

View from Fort Kijkduin over Den Helder

From here we trampled around the large dijk enjoying the salty sea air which seems so rare in the northern hemisphere (not because there's less sea but the sea doesn't seem to 'smell'). Around the lighthouse is the original settlement (the old hamlet) of Den Helder and we went off exploring the Fort Kijkduin which was built in 1811.

A yummy dutch Kroket for lunch

Original city church

Taking home the bling! 

After that we drove back to the main part of town grabbed some late lunch and begun to make our way back. Den Helder was a great place for a run but without the race (and a strong fascination in naval history) there isn't very much else to do there on a Sunday!

Tot siens,

John and Kara

Naarden, North Holland, Netherlands

Ariel view of Naarden (photo from google images)

We set off this morning in good spirits, it was a cloudy and overcast morning and the cool air was thick with low fog. 

But we weren't overly bothered by the weather. 

Decked out in our new cycling gear, we left our homey abode heading out for the star-shaped city fortress of Naarden, twenty five kilometres east of Amsterdam.

Passing windmills along the Vecht river

We certainly looked forward to arriving at our destination but we found the journey just as fulfilling. We cycled through the flat middle polder lands and large wetlands, down along the wide rivers past windmills and under bridges. 

Cycling along our legs pumped  almost as fast as we could make them go and we kept low against the wind but nevertheless speedy pelotons of cyclists raced by, like they were cheetahs and we were house cats.

We made it to Naarden, the small city built to protect the eastern side of Amsterdam and surrounded by an amazing star-shaped fort, complete with fortified walls and a double moat. 

Setting off from home! 

Following the bike paths

Although it grew out of strategic importance, the township has a long history. First recorded and mentioned in documents around the 9th century at the time of the vikings, it was merely a small town of fishermen and traders. 

Arriving into the fortified city of Naarden

However during the 13th and 14th centuries a couple of monstrous storms swept over Holland. Hundreds of thousands of acres of land were washed away from what locals called the waterwolf and a giant inland sea was created, the Southern Sea (Zuiderzee). The old town of Naarden was almost completely submerged and was abandoned in the year 1350. Quickly, the hardy refugees created a complete new town, a couple of miles inland on higher ground. The new Naarden rapidly became the regional capital at the time, and developed into a prosperous merchant town. 

City Hall, Naarden

Terrace dining on the main street

Spanish House

Historic Dutch buildings

Because of its location, Naarden suffered much more destruction and misery by war. Like in the beginning of the Dutch Eighty-Years-War of independence in 1572, when an invading Spanish army on an expedition burned it to the ground and massacred most citizens. 

Walking up Kloosterstraat

Exploring the walls

It was after that, that the town was built up again, and gradually surrounded by an elaborate star-shaped defense system. The town saw much more fighting, but by miracle the old centre within the city walls has kept its unique 17th century atmosphere intact. Today Naarden is one of the best preserved fortified towns in Europe.

Jogging along the embankments

Once we arrived warm, sweaty and tired we parked up the bikes and went in search for lunch. Lunch was good and satisfying and, as we ate, we watched and cheered-on the last stragglers of a local marathon. The main street which runs across the length of the little city was busy with cafes and small terraces of supporters lining the cobbled road. We went off exploring the city's fortified walls and returned to the Grote Kerk. From ground level it was harder to see the city's star shape so we had to use our imaginations a little, we guess that just makes it all the more amazing that they built it so symmetrical.

Naarden's Grote Kerk

Drink stop at the city well

The (great) church in the town centre is one of the oldest surviving churches in The Netherlands, having had the good fortune to survive the Spanish invasion of 1572 and the subsequent burning of the town. It wasn't open until later in the afternoon so we just walked around the outside. It's believed that its alter stone is the last remaining piece saved from the old town when the water wolf took hold. 

Out on the main street one of the most beautiful buildings we saw was the Spaanse Huis. The Spanish House was designed to commemorate the massacre of 1572 when the house, originally a church, was ransacked by Spanish troops who massacred some 700 inhabitants who had gathered inside to hear a peace proposal. Sad story. 

Pit stop at the Zuiderzee

After our short stay, we hopped back on our bikes and followed the Northern Sea line back into Amsterdam. The morning clouds long gone we rode into the fiery afternoon sun. Along the way we made a short detour in Muiden. The town of Muiden is home to the legendary Muider Castle built in 1370.

First glimpse of the castle

Up close and personal 

Main street of Muiden, along the canal

Like something from the Middle Ages the castle rises from the flat green field lands which surround it. We cycled through the picturesque little town and continued on our way home feeling quite impressed with our efforts today, cycling over 55 kilometers. Go us!

Tot siens,

John and Kara