Cinque Terre, Italian Riveria, Italy

Dinner time! 

The Cinque Terre (chin-kway tar-ray) is one of Italy's most iconic walkers' destinations and as eager hikers we couldn't miss it. Going with the nature outdoors vibe we booked a tent at the La Sfinge campground, in a small coastal village called Deiva Marina, which to our delight was both comfortable and secure. 


Located on the coast of the Italian Riviera, in the Liguria region, the Cinque Terre are five tiny little fishing villages sitting perched on the mountain hillsides. The area is protected from car access, enhancing its natural charm. 
Over centuries the people built terraces on the rugged cliffs which fall dangerously into the sea, growing their fruits and vegetables. Their speciality in the hot, humid climate are lemons, tomatoes and white grapes. 

Monterosso Beach

To visit the villages, one can go by ferry, train or on foot. 

Our choice: the Sentiero Azzurro hiking trail which winds through the five villages, starting from either Monterosso in the West or Riomaggiore in the East. Although part of the trail is closed due to landslips we were able to complete a good chunk of the walk and for the remaining section could hop on and off the speedy regional trains using a day pass.

Having set three nights aside to explore the region we weren't in a big hurry to set off, so after a leisurely breakfast the next morning we jumped on the next available shuttle. From our camp ground we reached Monterosso in just eleven minutes and started our upward hike. 

John- let's get our walk on! 

Stunning blue waters

Monterosso was our first village and perhaps the largest of the five, based low in a small valley inlet the town sits wide, split in two across the seashore. We walked quickly trying to get ahead of the masses and along the water front to the historical center. It was a very humid morning and the sky was almost foggy with heat. Praise our lucky stars the sun was hiding behind the clouds often because in moments we were panting and sweating just looking at the tower of stairs weaving and plaiting up the hillside in front of us. We had a speedy gonzales look around and took a moment to admire the stunning ocean but then kept marching, up, and up the stairs we went! 

Wait! Let's take a breather! 

The Cinque Terre landscape

Rocky paths

West view down to sea

Vernazza, the next village four kilometers away, couldn't come fast enough! It was so hot and, without much shade, the upwards path was treacherous. The stairs cut into the hillside were crooked and uneven, it certainly didn't look anything like the pictures we had previously seen on google images.

Views of Vernazza

As we caught a first glance of Vernazza we felt fantastic, we could see it and it wasn't that far away after all! We only had a few more windy bends to go across the colossal hillside. 

Flowers and the church tower

After our swim, village centre

We arrived almost to the second, on 12pm and the village church bells rang out joyously, it felt like our arrival was being celebrated. Naturally like parched animals heading to a watering hole we were suddenly stripping off and diving into the very salty sea! After cooling down we had a look around. Vernazza was so tiny, the main street headed directly up from the harbour and had maybe forty houses lined up like big coloured marshmallows and then a second row behind them. The feeling was very relaxed, washing hung from lines right over the main street mixing with flags and colourful flowers. 

Nah... I'll have vege tart

Taking a swim! We made it! 

What we liked was the main centre was actually along the sea front, where you could quietly sit back hidden along a stone wall and see everything happening. We realised pretty quickly the local go-to food here was focaccia but overwhelmed by the selection we grabbed a small vegetable tart for lunch and jumped back on the road heading up the hill again and onwards to the village of Corniglia. The views looking back were great but looking forwards even better. 

Huge cacti growing on the hills

Catcha later Vernazza

Little Corniglia sits high on the cliff looking out over the sea and was already visible from Vernazza. This part of the hike was relatively flat just going up and down like traversing large speed bumps. We walked through to Corniglia, the current trail end, taking a rest for our collapsing legs. This little village looks very tired and worn down, with peeling paint and general wear and tear. 

Views of Corniglia 

However, I'm sure we would too, after standing up on a cliff face being battered by wind, sun and salty waves for hundreds of years. Despite its hardy weathered look, the village was alive inside; like a hardy fig with a tough outer exterior and a beautiful delicious interior. Surprisingly cooler, the inner sanction was made mostly of smooth dark stone and the roads were designed to enhance the sea breezes.

Walking deep into the heart of Corniglia

Clan flags and merchandise 

From the town centre it's 326 steps down to the train station. Since coming to the end of the walkable trail, we jumped on board the next passing train and went to the furtherest of the five villages: Riomaggiore. 

Walking up the streets of Riomaggiore

Focaccia? 

All kinds of yummy products available 

Spot John! Time to take a dip! 

We debated for some time on whether this was a favourite or not. A little dirty and overly populated with cruise boat tourists, from the naked eye it looked to be quite over-rated. Dig a little deeper though, and suddenly you can see ancient fishermen pulling their boats into the tiny harbour and old nonnas sweeping their doorsteps, grinning with gap-toothed smiles, lines weathered into their foreheads. 

Riomaggiore

Rain, Rain go away! 

We took another chance for a swim off the pebbled shore and then, exhausted, returned back to the campground.  That evening we were buggered and slept like cement bricks. The following morning after a light breakfast a huge thunderstorm suddenly rolled in off the coast. 

The thunder was deafening, the lightning striking at the same time and boy, did the heavens open! It rained so hard, and with such force that the ground quickly flooded. 

We sat in our little tent house with the door open, waiting, watching the hail suddenly rocket down! Meh. We went back to bed and waited it out. 

Before it was lunchtime, the sun was already out and shining and the puddles gone. Making up for idle time we were off to explore Manarola, the forth little village which we had missed the day before.

Main road to the wharf

Stormy Manarola

Manarola was stunning. With the passing morning rain, the air was crisp and clear. We decided for our late lunch to nibble on some of the focaccia and jumped right into the local flavours. We chose something a bit different, the black focaccia made by mixing a little charcoal dust in during kneading (apparently this helps aid digestion too). 

Black focaccia!

Parco Nazionale Della Cinque Terre

Up the steep main street

Walking through the vines

We spent quite a bit of time walking around the village and stumbled into a tiny hillside cemetery with burial plots dating back to the early 1800's. Up just higher on the hill there were tiny paths weaving through the vineyard and citrus laden terraces and we checked them out too.

Manarola and the terraced hillsides

Levanto beach

Before returning to the campground we got off the train in a small town called Levanto. This happening little place was packed with people! Just at the bordering edge of the Cinque Terre lots of Italian tourists had homed themselves here for the summer. 

We didn't realise though that trains only come by every hour after 6pm and by the time we got the next train we had missed the supermarket closing time. For dinner we had only leftovers of salami and warm rock melon.

Holiday makers going about their
evening, in Levanto

Some of the strange painted buildings

Sunset from the train 

That night again another huge storm passed over the campsite. Glad to be wrapped up in bed, but it was a little close for comfort. 

The tent rocked and whipped in the wind and rain, the lightening flashing through the thin fabric. For several hours the storm raged outside!

The next morning, bleary eyed, we were up to check out and return to the first village- Monterrosso. Our campground shop was just opening as we meandered past and took a sweet, like the most amazing fresh custard cream croissant, ever, for breakfast. 

The sea side promenade 

Goodies available! 

John and the village water front

Making Limoncello

An old church

Since we had walked through Monterosso so quickly on our first day, we wanted to wander through a bit slower. And we're glad we did! The town was gorgeous; as the sun was just heating up and the bakeries were opening, we were in time to watch the locals coming out for coffee and brioches. This village was just darling and with all kinds of interesting things, for example looking into shops we could see a small nun busy as a bee bottling and sticking labels on limoncello. The strange striped church had an interesting pirate sign and we enjoyed looking at all the local produce available. Of course we'll take some wine!  

Monterosso panoramic (check the different water colours!)

Tot siens,

John and Kara