Napoli, Home of the Mafia, Italy

Mount Vesuvius across the Bay

Today our Italian summer circuit went on an impromptu journey 'down south'. 

After five days in Rome we craved the fresh air and earthly nature that's hard to find in a city and especially because Italy doesn't do parks well. On our last day in Italy, where better to sooth our wants than on the world's most dangerous and destructive volcano: the famous Mount Vesuvius. 

Looking out across from the Mount

So over the high jagged mountains, through the bounteous vineyards, abundant farms and along the blue Italian coast we went towards the Gulf of Napoli. Where the name just rolls off your tongue, Naapoooliii. 

But with not much time it was off one train and straight on to another. Only 9kilometers away, the best way to access the walking paths of Mount Vesuvius is by bus from Ercolano. Situated on the lower slopes of the volcano and with evidence of settlements dating back to 7th century BC the Romans believed Ercolano, according to ancient legend, was founded by the legendary Hercules. Brave and gallant Hercules fought away Giants, sons of the earth, with the help of the gods. The area was later named Herculaneum. However centuries later, in 79AD, Herculaneum suffered the same dreadful fate as Pompeii when Mount Vesuvius ferociously erupted vomiting out fire and toxic gases, burying it under layers of magma. Although we didn't have time to make it to the museums in Pompeii we spent time reading about the spawns of deadly cloud, molten rock and pumice that consumed everything in its way.

Crater on the left, Pompeii on the Right

So from Ercolano it was a short wait and tuna sandwich break before we boarded the bus which took us up to the volcanic cone's 1000meter mark. On the journey up the north side of the mountainous stratovolcano the bus sped at break neck speed around tiny bends but kindly every so often the driver stopped to allow passengers to take a photo of the glorious views and re-compose themselves. 

A cloudy view back to Naples

Mount Vesuvius is perhaps the most studied volcano in the world and best known for its many catastrophic eruptions wiping out ancient settlements time after time. Even though it's currently sleeping, it is considered the most dangerous volcano in the world due to the fact that the 3 million people living at its base are at great danger. It's also thought well overdue to wake up! Today was a perfect hiking day though, cloudy and overcast with a light breeze and importantly no imminent sign of eruption!

Down to Naples

A sharp drop into the crater! 

The bus left us outside a gift shop. The carpark was dry and volcanic dust blew off the ground with each step we took. Looking downwards you can see how the slopes of the mountain are heavily scarred with lava flows but are also burdened with plenty of shrub growth; lower down forests and even vineyards cling on securely. The path twisted up like a serpent over the mountains slopes. It wasn't an easy climb. The scoria rock was small and in some places thick enough that your foot sunk in and slipped back a little. The well-worn path helped and at times the handrail- although it was a little bit close to the cone edge! 

John admiring the crater! 

We eventually succeeded on reaching the gran cono and summit caldera. The active caldera is believed to have formed after an eruption 17,000-18,000years ago and the cone which surrounds it was formed after the large eruption of 79AD. We were able to wander around the top edge and peer over. Today there were shoots of sulphur steam rising up, but nothing as spectacular as what you can find at Rotorua. 

Steaming right-side

Left- side

Wine grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius 

From the volcano we returned to explore the centre of Naapoooliii. 

Looking back at the Mount

Since we had our hiking shoes on we took a jog along the port front by the cruise ships hoping for a good shot of Mount Vesuvius. Napoli was not our cup of tea. 

Tattered, unloved and unsafe, it was hard to look over the graffiti, disgusting levels of rubbish on the streets and the hundreds of decaying and damaged homes. 

Quite ferral really.

The streets were filthy and people were sleeping in doorways everywhere. We walked fast and kept our heads down, trying not to bring attention to ourselves. Maybe we were being too cautious, but Napoli is home of the mafia after all.

Aesthetics aside, culinarily, Napoli is the birthplace of the pizza. Hands down, un-debatably the best pizza in the world. 

Looking down an old city wall entrance gate

A pizza worth coming to Naples for! 

The local government has gone so far to protect their treasured cuisine that there are cooking regulations on local pizza. Although we didn't enjoy the city we couldn't leave without trying this world class pizza. Close to the train station we bought a Margarita DOC and for only €3.50 it was the BEST pizza; truly, honestly, cross our hearts. The tomato was bursting with flavour, the cheese, chewy and mild and the dough light but not too fluffy. Sitting on a dirty bike-rack outside the train station's McDonalds, holding our little pizza box we could have died and gone to heaven. 

Tot siens,

John and Kara