ROMA Capitale, Italy

Roman warriors abound

Rome, Italy's capital, once the administrative cradle of one of the greatest civilisations ever has been exerting its power over the last 2800years of its existence.
With such a rich history, Rome has had an overwhelming impact on the world. Without overly exaggerating and it's hard not to, as with every turn something amazing strikes you, Rome is full of grand palaces, romantic ruins, opulent fountains and ornate statues.

The city is alive and flourishing and clearly still to this day exerts an influence through its enduring cultural ties, love of fashion and fine food. Old and new mix together seamlessly with tree-lined boulevards running parallel with medieval cobbled lanes, ending with ancient Roman columns.

A fountain in the Piazza della repubblica

It has been said that Rome was founded by the mythical twins Romulus and Remus (remember them from our Florence blog?) who were abandoned and raised by a she-wolf before being found by a shepherd. We love a good legend and with evidence of a first settlement back in the 8th century BC it's fair to assume at some time this folk story might have told some truth! 


Once a small village, Rome rose quickly and grew to become the Western world's largest and wealthiest city, holding the title for over one thousand years and it is that rich history which draws millions of tourists to Rome annually.

Santa Maria Maggiore

Piazza della Madonna 

Bright and cheery, full of exuberant energy we bounded into Rome with renewed enthusiasm and vigour. Look at that golden Jesus, look at this building, oh what's that- we'll have to come back and check that out! 

Chiesa dei Santi Luca e Martina

But first we had to carefully navigate our accommodation situation. Close to the train station, through a street market selling Chinese plastics, in what looked and felt like not the best neighbourhood we found our hotel. 

Upon checking in, it seemed that our 'hotel' was overbooked or perhaps more appropriately the hotel had purposefully overbooked. We had got ourselves caught up in some kind of seedy dealings for sure because oh yes there was an apartment available for us 'in another building' OR for a special price we could upgrade to a different room (still not in our hotel). This story sold with a..."yes my friends come look, just looking, ok?" was not appreciated. But we still needed somewhere to stay so we went to see the original room. 

Palazzo della Esposizoni

Our haven't-washed-since-last-year receptionist (the first clue we should have picked up when arriving) marched us down the road and showed us our room. Thinking we were born yesterday he was adamant no one else lived there, but the Muslim woman hiding in the kitchen and the fact he needed to be buzzed in to the 'Yusuf' residence was a bit of a dead give away. Well it was clean and even though there was no advertised TV, coffee machine or a breakfast fit enough to feed a dog we didn't really have many other options.


Bags down, room locked, out we went to explore Roma!

Forum de Augustus

Now, friends, countrymen, Romans, lend me your ears. Be quiet, be still and hear our words.

For if one more lone person appeals our need to acquire a selfie stick, that stick will be placed high up ones backside. Move forward now and share our gospel.... (Face palm).

Honestly, we really, really don't want a selfie stick, or a scarf, or a wooden bowel, or a beautiful rose for the pretty lady or to sign against drugs or a spray painted picture or anything else for that matter! Big breath. We want to see Rome! 

Ancient Colosseum, Rome

And Rome we saw! Slowly, calmly we traversed forwards, backwards and in circles. Sometimes forging a new route other times tracing our steps. We explored the ancient Colosseum first, built by captured slaves. If Rome had a central point it would most surely be the colosseum, located in the heart of the city the grand monument was the largest of it's kind. Technically an amphitheatre, it's considered one of the greatest works of architecture and engineering.

Northside of the Colosseum

Out front (East side)

Views from the lower level

Strong and steady, still standing!

In it's heyday, the Colosseum could hold around 50,000 to 80,000 people. It's construction which begun in AD72 under the emperor Vespasian was completed in AD80 under his successor Titus. As we toured the public halls and ancient stone steps we read how it was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles (really!), animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on classical mythology. 

Interior view, Colosseum 

Hanging about inside! 

Of course time and natural decay hasn't been kind to the limestone rock and although its self supporting arches are crumbling and the damp maze of hidden rooms are now visible under the central floors, it's still grand, still magnificent, still a work of art.

Interesting artefacts in the museum

Far view of the Colosseum 

Arco di Costantino

As the afternoon grew on, our second stop was towards Arco di Settimio along the old roman ruins in Campitelli and past the Piazzo Campidoglio and finishing by the amazing Altare della Patria. We were drawn in by its grand stone cold white marble stairs, Corinthian columns, gushing fountains, soaring flames and handsome uniformed guards- the alter dedicated to the first King of a unified Italy. Completed in 1925, the largest (modern) monument in all of Rome asserts itself aggressively within such an old neighbourhood. 

Altare della Patria

Carcere Mamertino

View of Rione X Campitelli

Overwhelmed and warmed in the late noon sun we stopped for gelato. Sitting on a roadside table we slurped at our chocolate rum truffle ice cream and looked around. Surely, you could be in Rome for weeks and not see everything? 

Truffle rum and a side of fig 

Basilica Ulpia

After the last sun danced golden on the building frescos we wandered back to our 'room' catching the first street light begin to turn on. Soft, warm light shone up from the ground beginning to illuminate the buildings as we walked past. Strong smells of oven-baked pizza mixed with the joyful sounds of happy tourists enjoying their evening. Determined to make the most of tomorrow we drifted off happily. 

Looking up to Piazza Venezia

In the morning, after finding somewhere to grab a cappuccino we walked towards the Trevi.  La Fontana di Trevi is famous as the largest baroque fountain in the city and a backdrop to many popular movies. 

Top of the Trevi

Legend holds that in 19 BC thirsty Roman soldiers were guided by a young girl to a source of pure water thirteen kilometers from the city of Rome. The discovery of the source led the emperor Augustus to commission the construction of a twenty-two kilometer aqueduct leading into the city, which supplied Rome with water for over 400 years. Today, the fountain marks the terminal point of the ancient aqueduct but to our dismay it was all under renovation!! Hidden behind plastic and scaffolding! So we moved on, passing gorgeous plazas and weary old buildings, looking a little past their prime.

Outside Tempio Adriano

Closed off Trevi fountain 

Outside the Pantheon

A sacred Egyptian gift 

We reached Piazza Della Rotanda and home of Ancient Rome's best preserved building: the Pantheon. Suddenly a rich choir-like sound bellowed out and we gingerly stepped inside the ancient circular building.

Stunning rays of sunlight

Commissioned by the emperor Hadrian in 126, almost 2000 years ago, the Patheon still stands strong. Since its conception, it has been in continuous use, and since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been a church. It was the music that pulled us in and surprisingly we stayed a while to enjoy the ambience and atmosphere. Something special about the Pantheon is it's oculus.

The oculus is a round open hole in the roof which, as we walked in, is shaped in such a way that a long bright beam of light flooded through. Throughout the day, the light from the oculus moves around the building and also serves as a cooling and ventilation method. During storms, or wet weather there are special drains under the floors to help clear the water. 

Looking across Piazza Navona

From the Pantheon we walked North west to the river. Moving through Piazza Navona. The long public Piazza with its famous central Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi is more art than fountain!  Built in the 1st century and used frequently for Roman games and competitions, theatrical events and markets (including annual Christmas markets still) with its prominent Baroque style and seemingly endless sunlight, it is also home to a large gathering of budding artists. Who for a pretty penny endeavour to catch its beauty on their canvases. 

Ponte Sant' Angelo,
looking towards Castel Sant' Angelo

Heading towards the Fiume Tevere river that wraps around Rome's insides, we crossed over the Ponte Umberto I bridge which is embellished with large impressive angels perhaps protecting or keeping watch over the Palazzo di Guistizia. 
Returning, we veered over the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II bridge. 

Another great day was followed with a journey much further to the old city's south west to the trendy neighbourhood of Trastevere. Across the river, the area oozes affluence but also more quiet down-to-earth eateries and restaurants covered by flowers and wild plants. Away from the tourist hustle and bustle we could walk alone down the narrow roads following flocks of nuns moving from church to church. We wandered around until lunch time, taking breaks often by the number of fountains. Taking the longest route back we stopped for gelato, trying flavours like pesto di pistacchio, ricotta stregeta and the devine walnut fig.

Trastevere backroads

Quiet and overgrown

Old neighbourhoods

Washing and cafe's

Gelato time (again)

Piazza di Santa Maria

When the sun began its descent we wiggled and weaved through tour groups towards Rome's famous place to people watch: the Spanish steps. From the Piazza de Spagna around 130ish steps climb steeply to Piazza Trinata dei Monti but we couldn't see them because there were just so many people! 

Can you spot John on the steps?

We got ourselves a cozy spot, happily watching the final sunset, but after 10minutes we couldn't stay, someone was getting way too angry at the aggressively insistent selfie stick and flower pedlars. (Not looking at you, Kara).  

Even five days in Rome didn't give us time to see a fraction of Italy's Roman wonders. I guess we'll just have to come back! For now though, it's time to wave arrivedercci to Italy. 

One creamy cannoli! 

Rome by night! 

It's been a tremendous summer and our Italian circuit has come to it's end. Tomorrow we return to Spain!

We can't wait!

Tot siens,

John and Kara