Casablanca, Morocco

Casablanca's palm lined main street

We fumbled at the ticket machine. Was there an English version? Why isn't the credit card working? Why isn't this card working either? Let's try again. 

Ok, let's try another time. Eventually we walked downstairs to find platform one with white second class tickets to Casablanca in our sticky hands. 

But we never anticipated that the train would be so full that it was difficult to get on let alone to get a seat! By the time our hour long ride south across the fertile Chawiya plain was pulling into Casablanca we had wiggled our way through the warm-bodied masses onto seats. A short, direct walk to the hotel and we rested with a mint tea on red velvet chairs, gathering our bearings.

Fit for a princess

Casablanca or just Kaza is the largest city of Morocco and as a port city it is situated on the Atlantic Ocean. A powerhouse, it's considered the largest financial centre on the African continent. The city's present name, Casa Branca or 'white house', originates from the Portuguese who in the 15th century AD took control of the city, then named Anfa and aimed to destroy the 'pirate safe haven'. The city remained under Portuguese rule for some time before Spanish ruling and then French conquest. What's most interesting is that the area where Casablanca was founded and settled was by the Berbers 'wild people' as far back as the 7th century BC, then later by the Phoenicians and then the Romans.

All this history was at the back of our minds though when we entered our beautiful room. Pink, so pink. Pink toilet paper and pink bedding. 

Pink walls, tables and curtains. Like something out of the royal palaces of Aladdin, we couldn't help but giggle and smirk at its tackiness but yet it all kind of worked. 

Sellers waiting for buyers to wander by

It was so warm outside but we wanted to go and explore. After getting a map from the hotel reception where the concierge circled big yellow marks over everything we ventured towards Kaza's ancient medina. Home of over one million people, towering on top of each other in a small eleven kilometre round neighbourhood. 

Walking, we passed restaurants, half finished and abandoned buildings and looked in awe down each road we crossed. Apartment exteriors were dirty and the footpath, when there was one, was broken and muddy with litter piled in the gutters. Taxis honked at us and we dashed over the road several times holding onto our shirts that tried to flutter behind us. Reaching the medina souk salesmen called out to us in French, "madam, mademoiselle, madam" - 'il suffit de regarder', followed by 'just look'. There was a lot going on but not enough people to hide behind. Showing interest, even the flick of an eye, drew the attention of an overeager seller. 

Exploring the medina

Medina minet

We took a triangular route and as casually as possible shifted our gazes sideways to discreetly peer into the stalls. Across Morocco each city has an ancient medina, which rough translates to 'city'. Every medina has similar characteristics, a local bathhouse called hammam, a public bakery, an Islamic school (which since 9/11 have been government regulated), a mosque and the busy shop stalls. Here, each little shop was jam-packed with merchandise. Coloured robes, pointed leather shoes, copper trays and stainless steel pots, jewellery of all kinds and lacquered wooden boxes that magically folded out. We stopped to try something sweet off a street vendor: wet, moist and crumbly but with the consistency and feel of couscous or a small polenta we weren't sure what it was, later we found out it was semolina! Delicious and sugary nevertheless. 

Sweet treat

Cookies from the Moulay idress bakery

Coming out to a main road we decided to walk to Rick's Cafe, made famous in the 1940's film Casablanca, which wasn't actually filmed in Morocco but is still catching the tailwind of visiting tourists. Off we set on a long winded journey back and forth down the wrong roads across from the ports, past the train station again and along the waterfront. 

White houses of Casablanca or Kaza

By the time we reached the closed cafe we were parched, tired and with heavy legs tried to find the closest route back. Some young boys played football on the terrace across the road and a man stood alone twisting black cotton on the trees along the roadside. We walked back, taking a shortcut through the medina, walking quickly through the maze of streets bombarded by school children and parents doing the 5pm pick up. 'Welcome to Morocco' men huskily and quietly whispered as we walked by. 

Up early for the breakfast buffet, we intended to spend our morning at the Hassan II mosque. The largest mosque in Morocco and on the continent of Africa. Covering over nine hectares the huge white marble and concrete complex stands half over land and half over the Atlantic Ocean. 

After the death of King Mohammed V in 1961, King Hassan II wished to build a mausoleum to honor the passed King, with the intention to "reflect the fervor and veneration with which this illustrious man was regarded". The country's best artisans were invited to come forward and submit plans and it was to be the most ambitious structure built in Morocco. Completed in 1993 the mosque blends Islamic architecture and Moroccan elements, reflects moorish influences while featuring an urban design.

Hasan II Mosque

Waiting at the entrance

Side door

From the taxi the elegant middle tower or minaret, stood peering across the Kasa landscape. Considered the tallest religious structure in the world it's oriented towards the holy city of Mecca. We had just missed the 9am tour entry but, allowed in to catch up the group, we entered the prayer hall.

Inside the grand hall

Stunning lighting

'

Large enough to house the Notre Dame of Paris the hall was decorated in cedar wood, red carpets and a ceiling so high it could have been a night sky. We couldn't find the English tour so we jumped in alongside an Italian/Multilingual group but couldn't really understand the explanations. Following along we went underground into the hammam or bathhouse where the tour ended. Unsatisfied we attempted and negotiated to re-enter again at 10am taking more opportunities to take photos of the beautiful interior. Finishing up again in the bathrooms we ventured out and walked around the exterior.

To the entrance

Side door and Minet

Outdoor water fountain

Mosaic decorations 

Beautiful stairway

Downsairs Hamman

Rick's cafe was still closed so after returning to the hotel we took a taxi to the aptly named and ginormous Morocco mall, where we dined on lemon and olive chicken tangine with mint tea for lunch. On the drive we passed kilometres of slums, hidden behind large white walls. Houses barely held together along the road, like a wild wave smothering the hillside; housing families who barely if at all make the local minimum wage of 300euro a month.

Lunch Tangine! 

The local way to pour mint tea

We returned to the hotel, grateful for our warm beds and clean sheets but we didn't stay long before popping out again. Walking past several Art Deco buildings and the walled royal palace, we made our way into the Nueva villa. During the time of the French protectore and as Casablana mushroomed into a city around the 1920's a French quarter was designed including a souk and new medina. Now almost one hundred years old it doesn't have the same elegance and flair it probably once did, then attracting Europe's high class as a cosmopolitan city. Today, full with tourist items and markets, we found a small nook filled with olives. Olives of so many varieties, pale white or pale orange, rich burgundies, grass greens, black kalamatas, flavoured in so many ways and more. 

Olives, olives, olives

The other side- more olives! 

Side entrance to the royal palace

Then crossing over a bridge and into what could have only been described as an open butchery, caught by a sweet smell, like cut grass floating over an ablution block, we jumped off the road into a packed patisserie. There was a scent of almond and cinnamon and women covered from head to toe cackled happily choosing from golden trays of sweets. In our limited French we purchased chewy macaroons and chocolate and vanilla slices which were carefully packages in red boxes adorned with blue ribbon. Back on the filthy streets we looked around some more before heading back. 

Later that evening, we trundled downstairs and met with the other excited travelers of our Moroccan G Adventures tour group!! We went for dinner together and talked about the upcoming days as well as where we had come from. Soon after we called in an early night after such a busy day. 

Tot siens,

Kara (Tania/Stu and by association John)