Volubilis and Meknes, Morocco

View from the foggy bus window

Two cups of coffee, a thick bowel of leek and white bean soup and a large glass of orange juice. Far too much liquid to consume before climbing into the white tour bus. Really, Kara should have known better. It didn't help that it was raining, the continual patter of drops hitting the windscreen and causing the windows to fog as we motored off and out of Casablanca.

Almost alone on the road the minibus chugged along, splashing through the dark puddles, past grey and wet fields of crops, uniform government housing and the largest cork forest of Northern Africa. Our tour guide Yassine, merrily handing out tidbits of facts "Morocco is a polygamist society" but I think one wife is enough... chuckle chuckle. "November the 6th is a holiday, and was the day that the Kingdom of Morocco reclaimed the South from the Spanish, when 30,000 pilgrims marched from the North to the South holding the holy Koran high above their heads". The bus was muggy and warm, and Kara sat with her legs tightly crossed. 

We drove past small villages: white square houses clumped together on hillsides. As the road became more rural we saw men riding tired donkeys or pulling at them with leashes as they carried produce, straw mats and home equipment walking down in the clay road gutter. The rain continued to drizzle down and the views were obstructed by clouds but we could still see how green the fields were. Large cacti grew into fences and the soil was black and healthy looking supporting plantations of cereal, olives, grapes and other fruits.

Entering Volubilis

The bus stopped just past the holy village of Moulay Idriss, where pilgrims can travel six times a year rather than journey to the sacred Mecca, at the ancient Roman village of Volubilis. Built on the fertile plains just 100kms from the Atlantic Ocean the ruins are a UNESCO heritage site and the best preserved in Morocco. As noted in our lonely planet book 'Excavations have indicated that the site was originally settled by Carthaginian traders in the third century BC'. 

Following the old paths

Cloudy views

Ruins of Volubilis

Ruins of Volubilis

Annexed by Romans in AD40 the city grew quickly as a remote trading post at the end of the imperial road and was the home of over 18,000 people before being deserted around AD280. 

Stu admiring mosaics

Tania by the old capital

It was cold and raining when we got out of the van. The muddy ground was slippery but we set off with our unenthusiastic local guide who didn't look like he was enjoying standing in the rain talking with us, well probably as much as we enjoyed standing there getting sopping wet, with him. 

Basilica de Volubilis

Decumanus Maximus

But rain or not, we wandered over the ruins and took some photos of different stone and marble monuments, the baths of Galen, the House of Orpheus, Temple of Jupiter, Acrobat school, the library with its secret tunnel to the neighbouring brothels. The clouds were so low and almost in a way rolled across the ground seeping between the ruins. Most remarkable were the small square floor mosaics across the had-been houses.

Down to Tangier gate

Ancient road way

Chicken for lunch

It was still raining an hour later when we got on the bus. A perfect time for a nap between the drying jackets before waking at the project for Human development, a woman and child's refuge. 

By an organization which was supported by the tour company we ate some delicious local food, spiced eggplant mezze with hard bread and a white bean soup. 

Followed by slow-baked chicken smothered in thick sweet onion sauce and preserved lemon. We finished with strong mint tea, fresh fruit and a lesson in arabic.  

We next stopped at the ancient imperial city of Meknes, with its over twenty-five kilometres of opposing, high orange clay walls. First settled in the tenth century by the Berbers the city slowly grew and came into its own when the founder of the Alawite dynasty died and his brother and successor came to reign. The new Sultan Moulay Ismail became a dominate ruler of the region between 1672-1727. He begun his monarchy at age 26 by killing off his own 83 brothers and half brothers who would not submit to his rule. Over the first thirty years of his reign he continued a violent fight to bring most of Morocco under his control and grew into his name 'the Bloodthirsty'.

Inside Heri es-Sounai

Lights in Heri es-Sounai

Growing the cities he conquered and building many entirely new ones. It's said that his cruelty was legendary and the cheerful ease with which he would chop of the heads of lazy servants or labourers possibly contributes to his hold over the country. He taxed returning pirates that sailed up the Iberian coasts into Europe and the royal treasury grew. After returning to Meknes he begun to build an imperial palace for himself, the city walls which he covered in the heads of enemies and a city Kasbah, leaving not just a legacy but the foundation of modern Morocco.

Outside stables

Straight views in all directions

In his capital of Meknes, Moulay was famed for his black guard. A notorious slave tribe of 16,000 sub-Saharan warriors, which by the time of his death had increased 10 fold. He kept them loyal through a mix of fear, supplying a bountiful supply of woman to be their wives and raising their children as part of the guard. Alongside the slaves he maintained over 12,000 luxurious Arabian horses, 4 wives and 500 consorts, leading to a recorded almost 900 children.

Driving through and around the walls of Meknes

Our Meknes guide jumped in our bus and took us first to Heri es-Souani. These were Moulay Ismail's immense granaries and stables. The building, built by his slaves, was at the time the largest in the world and protected the city from hunger. It's estimated that the granary could store enough grains to feed the city for ten to fifteen years if and when the impending Ottoman empire struck. The buildings were gigantic with massive sandstone walls and tiny windows which created cool storage conditions. Underneath was also an intricate water system of channels designed to move around cool water. He pointed out similarities to the large mosque (Mesquita) in Cordoba, Spain which had been built during the same dynasty. 

Restored city walls

Entrance to Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail

Following the high city walls we next ventured to the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, believed to bring good luck or baraka and divine blessing to all that visit. At his final resting place you pass through several large, tiled and pale-yellow courtyards before reaching the lavishly designed Moroccan tomb.

Inside the mausoleum 

Little water feature

Inside the ancient courtyard

Nondescript from the outside, the tomb itself is decorated with graceful inner arches and marble columns that provide a pilgrim tranquility. There's a pretty little fountain and when we were there, busloads of excited Spanish tourists. It was a small part of ancient history that we enjoyed being able to see. After that the clouds had finally cleared enough to allow us a glimpse of the setting sun.

Side view of a city gate

Gardens around the wall

'Praise to Allah' decorating the walls

A warm glow settled across the city and locals bustling about scrambled over the nearby markets. We made one last stop at a large entrance along the city walls before moving on to Fez.

Tot siens,
Kara (Tania/Stu and by association John).