Fez, Morocco

Maakouda sandwiches for dinner

The sun had already set. We sat on red plastic chairs, leaned up against the broken sidewalk next to a man squeezing fresh pomegranate juice. We were watching families go about their business as we ate a delicious maakouda sandwich for dinner. Soft and fluffy, spiced mashed potato, rolled in something red and then deep fried before being thrown in a roll with chilli sauce, tomato sauce and sliced green olives. We contemplated life in Morocco as we munched into our roll, chatting with our American friends and watching life pass us by. Our last two days in Fez, one of Morocco's oldest imperial capitals had been overwhelming and yet we still wanted to see more.

City walls of Fez

We had spent the largest part of the day in the city's old Medina and it was by far the most exciting part of the trip so far. 

But before starting off in the old medina we had explored the newer medina. Built by the Sultan Abu Yusuf Yacoub around 1258-86 over an existing ancient neighborhood. 

He designed the new neighbourhood surrounding the royal palace and he packed it with Syrian guards in an attempt to isolate himself from the people. It was transformed into a Jewish quarter around 1438 by escaping Jews from the Atlas mountains and 800 Andalusi Arab families of Berber descent (who had been expelled from Córdoba after a rebellion in Spain). 

Jewish quarter

Jewish quarter

Our city tour guide pointed out the differences between the houses in the neighbouring new and old districts, particularly the use of balconies in the Jewish quarter. As we walked down dark alleys he would dribble out interesting facts like how they use dead wool to make traditional beds and that there would be a ceremony before a marriage when the new marital bed is carried to the house where the new couple will live (often with the groom's parents).

Entrance into the Arab neighbourhood

Towards Borj Nord

Next up we drove up Borj Nord Hill for a stunning panoramic over Fez. It was still quite cloudy this morning but the clouds were high and the view spectacular. 

View of Fez from Borj Nord Hill

We then took an interesting tour of a local mosaic factory, where they explained the process in detail; from colouring, cooking and shaping clay to painting, chipping and eventually building the beautiful mosaic designs. It was amazing to see how all the tiny pieces in a mosaic are actually first put together upside down! 

Painting bowels 

Chipping at the tile

Shop shop shop!

Stunning plates

Hanging wall displays

After the interesting demonstrations and talk we were all cornered into one of their four large buying rooms to drink piping hot mint tea and admire, well, to gawk at the price of the coloured artisanal handmade pottery. It was beautiful but also the pressure to purchase made the experience less enjoyable. Coming out however we certainly had a deeper appreciation for the craftsmanship and effort that goes into traditional designs.

After forty five minutes in the factory we huddled back into the bus to drive down the road into town. Our driver, Friday man, just missed the children coming home for lunch and the donkeys and their farmers and everyone else on the road who had to jump out of our way. He dropped us off alongside a small almost indistinguishable alley and we piled onto the road. 

Then together in a single file line we dived head first into the old medina, the Fès el-Bali. Over 1,200years in the making, it's considered one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world. It's the pulsating hub and heart of Fez. Like arteries and veins pumping blood to the core the alleys were a circuit of interwoven paths, protected by its large earthy walls. 

Dates and dried fruit

Walking past the blacksmiths

Mingling with locals

Textiles 

The centuries-old dark and warm alleys had open roofs draped in squares of worn cloth, hung to cover and shelter the tables underneath from the dry desert sun. As we started through, there was so much food, most of it recognisable like dates, olives, fruits and vegetables. There were hawkers selling spices, rich in smell like cumin, turmeric, saffron and chilli wafting over the smells of cooking oil, raw meats and leather. 

Inside a silk shop

There was some we didn't recognise, types of bitter and salty smelling sauces, red spiky fruits and assortments of pastries. Animal heads from camels, goats and sheep hung over stalls, buzzing in flies, some skinned with the small eyes bulging and others covered in a wet sticky fur. Each signalling what the shop sold. At our feet were woven baskets full of snails, little fish and prawns, their juices trailing into the stone cracks we walked over. 

People pushed, hustled and rushed past us in every-way, coming from the front, behind or appearing from doors and passages half submerged down wonky dark steps. The paths curved or jutted crookedly left or right. Uneven steps would appear below us catching us off balance sending someone sprawling. It certainly wasn't flat. Sellers called out at us and men pushing donkeys forward yelled harshly in our direction 'baluk, baluk', move aside, we had to look everywhere all at once.

Copper pots

Shoes and belts

Local pots

Amazing doors

People just watching people

Textiles

The group moved quickly, racing behind the city tour guide to hear his explanations, too quickly to take photos and keep up. We fell behind every time we stopped to look at something. With the real possibility of never making it out of there by ourselves IF we ever ventured back alone, we dawdled at the back of the pack as far as we could with Yassine, who had the 'pick up any stragglers' job. He was more than willing to wait for us and if we showed any interest in something food related he jumped at the chance to quickly help and show off the Moroccan food (which seemed to be his passion). So, confident that he could probably help us meet up with the rest of the group later we walked as fast as we could and munched on street pancakes, sipped piping hot chickpea soup, eating dates and other tidbits of food he passed our way to try, eventually we caught up with everyone else.

Alleys of clothes

Marriage belts

Locals washing mint

Prayer shirts

We navigated past locals appearing out of dark side lanes. We walked past blacksmiths working hot red metal and in the middle of an open square men furnishing brass copper pots.

Handmade carpets

We passed carpet shops were men sat outside on worn stone steps smoking, perhaps like their fathers, grandfathers or great grandfathers had done before them. Deep in the medina it felt like we had experienced a time shift, there was little evidence that technology existed other than the clicks of our cameras. 

Peering through wooden doors we saw workers hand-stitching cloth, working on large wooden looms or hovering over furnaces. 

Everything so rough, so raw and yet so real. Many of the walls we raced by were ornately detailed in woods and marbles built during the city's expansion in the 12th and 13th centuries. There were beautiful mosques and palaces built over each other and tightly squeezed between residences that remain unchanged since the Middle Ages. 

Doors of the Medina

Passing a window

Detailing outside a mosque

Intricate mosaics 

Peeking in the University of al-Karaouine

Old doors!

The ancient medina is famed for also having the oldest university in the world. In its core is the University of al-Karaouine or al-Qarawiyyin. The oldest continually operated university in the world which was founded by Tunisian refugee Fatima al-Fihri in AD859. So guided, we stopped at several entrance doors and peered in. Built as a mosque complex, it's considered the spiritual heart of Fez and can accommodate up to 20,000 people but is not accessible to non-Muslims. We were able to enter a stunning Madressa, almost secretive, in the way it's hidden through several doors. The best part of this now unused Koran school was the intricate detailing of the walls.

High roofs and cut marble

Marble carved detailing

After a local traditional lunch, was the tannery visit. The tanneries, although currently under renovation for the first time in several millennia of their existence, are still used widely. Tanners are organized by ancient guild practices and are born into the job. 

They use medieval techniques (read pigeon poop and cow urine) to dye the leather skins of goats, sheep, cows and camels. But again here after a short explanation we were 'guided' through a four story shop of beautiful and expensive leather products. 

Gorgeous leather bags

Duffels and jackets

Exploring the local bakery

Local bread cooking

After this, we worked our way out of the snaking covered bazaars, past the craft shops selling shoes, dresses and the parades of people coming in and out of silk, jewellery and clothing shops.

See you later Medina

We picked up lunch for the next day from a supermarket on the way and then made our way to dinner. Finally returning to the hotel to rest and absorb what we had seen.

Tot siens,

Kara (Tania/Stu and John by association)